Visual Art Archives -

Sassuolo Baroque Palace — Contemporary Art Italy

September 16, 2016 By Jessica McAvoy Leave a Comment

Camera delgli Incanti Monochromatic Light Sassuolo Image

The listing mentioned frescoes. Since I am always on the hunt for a good dose, we got off the bus in Sassuolo. I thought the first time I heard of the Palazzo Ducale di Sassuolo was on the map that was in my hands for the Discover Ferarri and Pavoratti Land Tour in Modena, Italy. I never expected to find a contemporary art installation in a Baroque Palace. But, this is Italy, so you never really can predict what’s on the other side of a stone fortress.

We were let off just outside the historical city center. Two enthusiastic young ladies, maybe high school age, greeted us. They were sitting on folding chairs under a pop-up tent trying to hide from the relentless sun. They had nightmarishly large textbooks open. It was early afternoon and somewhere between 100 and 110 degrees. Even under the tent, the sun hurt your eyes and skin. One girl had to relentless push her large framed glasses up from the tip of her nose. No doubt they were fast-tracked back down by droplets of sweat. They were eager to leave their posts and show us the way to the Palace. Even more eager to practice speaking English with us.

When we arrived at the Palace, the young ladies introduced us to the curator, Patrizia Silingardi. She asked if we would like a personal tour with her. Of course, we jumped at the opportunity. Patrizia said her English was not so excellent–which, of course, it was–so one of the ladies stayed to help translate while the other rushed back to the bus stop.

The thick stone walls protected us from the torments of the outside heat. We wandered through the rooms of the renovated second floor (what the Italians consider the first). Patrizia explained to us the meaning behind every one of the floor-to-ceiling frescoes. Not an inch uncovered in the palace’s heyday.

Frescoes at the Sassuolo Palace in Italy

Sassuolo Palace, Contemporary Art Meets Baroque Frescos

Some frescoes were better preserved than others. The palace started as a castle and then changed hands to the powerful Este (aka Estense) family. They transformed it into the structure present today. This family ruled many of the cities throughout Emilia-Romagna for a few centuries and were the big daddy patrons of the arts in the region.

When we reached the Salone delle Guardie, I recalled learning of the palace in one of the many art history courses that I have taken over the years. Tromp l’oeil painted by Angelo Michele Colonna tricks the eye into believing the columns are marble and musicians fill the stone balconies above. The tapestry drapes hang with heaviness, and the infantry is in the distance through the painted windows. The information Patrizia provided was outstanding. Then we turned the corner.

Salone delle Guardie frescoes by Angelo Michele Colonna

We entered the Camera degli Incanti, and my heart stood still. The baroque interior contained all the glitz and glamour one would expect — carved and gold leafed trim work, decorative garlands held up over the doorway by putti smiling down, and a variety of marbles patterned on the floor in a way that created an optical illusion. The room filled with natural light.

And the color blue.

It moved blue from the pale to deep, to purple, to green, and every variation in the color spectrum. The exhibition is titled Monochromatic Light.

On each wall firmly stood the moldings that once boxed in the family’s paintings. Now they were home to canvases of various hues of blue created by American and European artists: Winston Roeth, Anne Appleby, Timothy Litzman, Lawrence Carroll, David Simpson, Phil Sims, and Ettore Spalletti. If I recall correctly, the panels illustrated the various tones of blue light you see as the sun enters the space, moves throughout the day, and finally sets. Each panel was different, and they all worked independently and as a whole installation together.

The overall impact created a sense of sunrise to sunset in each space.

The boxes acted as windows framing the sky. As I stood in the center of each room, I faced a pale and subtle blue that worked up to a bright and bold blue, and as I slowly turned around, the deepest and darkest blues enveloped me. I felt the sky changing around me.

The power of the space evoked so many beautiful feelings. I have always been fond of contemporary art that responds to traditional architecture. Our tour with the curator was the icing on the cake. If you understand Italian, this link to a brochure will tell you more show you a few better photos of the palace.

6 Reasons to Visit Conegliano on Your Next Italian Vacation

November 18, 2015 By Jessica McAvoy Leave a Comment

Travelers to Italy’s Veneto region often pass through on a mission to Venice, missing out on the beauty and splendor of the area. This makes Conegliano all the more worth a stop. It is unspoiled and quiet with very few tourists. With a compact historic center, a pedestrian-friendly sprawl surrounding, and a convenient train station, Conegliano is an excellent place to plant yourself and take a few days trips, or just absorb Italian life. There are many reasons that this gem is one of my favorite cities in Italy.

Here are my top six reasons to visit Conegliano on your next Italian Vacation.

6. Conegliano Art

A town in the grips of the powerhouse Venice in its prime, Conegliano has a rich history which means lots of investments in the arts and culture. It is the birthplace of painter Giovanni Battista, known as Cima da Conegliano. Renaissance painter of many religious stories, one masterpiece remains in town, Madonna with Child Enthroned with Saints (La Madonna in Trono e Santi), located in the 15th century Duomo di Santa Maria Annunziata e San Leonardo. To the left of the Duomo is the Scuola dei Battuti, home to the Sala dei Battuti and an engulfing space covered in frescoes. The hours to visit are finicky, and usually only open on Sundays, however outside the door is a phone number you can call to make a reservation.

Frescoes have defied time and mother nature here. You can still see portions on the exteriors of many of the buildings throughout the historic center. That’s right, on the exteriors! Up the hill and overlooking the town is a tower which is all that remains of the castle. Now home to a small Civic Museum, it contains a few gem paintings, fresco fragments, and some archaeological finds. The view of the region from up top is outstanding so take the fifteen-minute walk up and stop in the bar at the top for a glass of Prosecco. If the Prosecco doesn’t already reward you, the 360-degree view at the top of the tower will.

Fresco on the exterior facade of Conegliano’s Duomo di Santa Maria Annunziata e San Leonardo

5. Veneto Wine Region – Strada del Prosecco and Colli Conegliano Valdobbiadene

The Veneto, my friends, is the land of Prosecco, a beautiful DOCG (highest quality classification) wine which comes in three varieties – tranquillo or still, frizzante or slightly sparkling, and spumante or full of sparkle. Conegliano is home to Italy’s most prestigious school of wine, and a viticultural institute where many grape varieties have been bred and a number of native varieties have been saved. It is also from here that you can start the meandering Strada del Prosecco and Colli Conegliano Valdobbiadene. These two intoxicating (only for the passenger) drives take you right through the heart of the Prosecco growing vineyards. As with most regions in Italy, in general, wineries take guests by appointment so make sure and grab a map from your hotel and ask them to assist you in planning the day. If you find yourself without reservations anywhere don’t fret, the drive is beautiful, and in every cafe and restaurant, you are sure to be offered a lovely glass of the local pour.

View of the Veneto region from the top of the tower.

4. Conegliano for Festivals and Events

Throughout the year the people of Conegliano are always finding joy in life and a reason to celebrate. Of course, due to the Prosecco, almost monthly you can find an event in the region celebrating this beautiful wine. All the wine festivities culminate the last week of September with the “Autumn Coneglianese” or a grape festival featuring hundreds of wines and the region’s most distinguished vineyards present for tasting. Each June you can bare witness to the “Living Draughts Game,” or a live chess game with people playing the part of the pieces. During the festival, a Renaissance atmosphere is throughout town. There are also tons of small events happening almost weekly such as a Jazz fest throughout the winter, and music, performance, craft, and food festivals throughout the spring, summer, and fall. Whichever season you find yourself in the neighborhood there is sure to be a reason to celebrate life with the locals.

Lion fresco on the Belvedere Dal Vera entry into the historic center of Conegliano.

3. Amazing Drives and Day-trips Near Conegliano

As I mentioned above, Conegliano is the starting point for the Strada del Prosecco and Colli Conegliano Valdobbiadene taking you on a lovely drive through some of the world’s most beautiful wine country. Located at the foothills of the great Dolomite Mountains, when you head out from Conegliano you can quickly find yourself on scenic drives that would put anyone in awe. Full of grand vistas, grazing cows, switchbacks by the dozens, and the opportunity to stop in beautiful little mountain side villages for a bite to eat and an afternoon caffè corretto (espresso with a shot of grappa) these rides are well worth some of your time. Within half an hour to an hour drive, you can find yourself in the more tourist-filled towns of the Veneto region such as Verona, the many towns on the east side of Lake Garda, Padua, and of course, Venice.

Beautiful sky during a scenic drive in the Veneto region near Conegliano.

2. Venice – Close Enough, Yet Far Enough Away from Conegliano

Venice is magical and if you have not stayed over night, you must at least once… preferably during the off-season (November until right before Carnevale except for between Christmas and New Years). After one stay you can leave the over inflated prices to the masses. From that point on day-tripping is the way to go and Conegliano is the last stop of a direct train line into Venice which makes it a painless45-minute train ride and just a few bucks. Recently we took a train around 7:45 am, arrived in Venice by 8:30 am, visited the Gallerie dell’Accademia and Scuola San Rocco nearly by ourselves, and stopped for a cafe and dolce. We dropped by the Guggenheim, and by the time we were finished the crowds became crushing, and we were ready to head out. We grabbed a quick slice of pizza, and we were on our way back before most people even disembarked their cruise ship. The train is so quick and easy you could base yourself in Conegliano for a few days and drop in and out of Venice many times to see the sights without blowing your entire trip’s budget on accommodation and dining. We were back in Conegliano in the late afternoon to enjoy a delicious dinner of authentic food at realistic prices.

Venice at night is magical once, after that leave the overpriced accommodation and food to the masses.

1. Cuisine

Which brings me to my favorite part of Conegliano – the cuisine. Everywhere we select seems to be fantastic. Wander down the portico covered walkways and peek into any restaurant and your senses come to life. Most of the area spots pride themselves on the use of fresh, local ingredients. We have two particular favorites. Al Salisa is located at Via XX Settembre 2/4 and focuses on typical regional cuisine. To note is the house-made burrata with a firm mozzarella exterior and soft, supple, creamy center, and the tagliatelle alla selvaggina with wonderful homemade pasta and a ragu full of the flavors of all the game meats incorporated.

Our second favorite is Trattoria Citta’ Di Venezia, a lovely seafood restaurant and osteria located at Via XX Settembre 77/79. Fresh ingredients and beautiful presentation along with friendly staff make this a favorite stop for us. The mix vegetable side dish is outstanding in the summer with fresh herbs bringing the flavors to life and always a treat is the mini octopus starter.

Burrata at Al Salisa

Where Do We Stay?

Hotel Cannon d’Oro, a Best Western hotel located in the heart of the old city is our favorite spot to stay. Family owned and operated, all of the staff are just lovely and helpful. There is gated parking onsite with some spots under overhangs making them great for travelers by motorcycle. They are also a “cycle” hotel with amenities that gear specifically to travelers on bicycles such as a bicycle wash, maintenance area, safe bicycle lock space, and a hearty breakfast with meats, cheeses, hard-boiled eggs, pastries, fruits, and cereals. The rooms and beds are super comfortable and clean.

Frescoes in Croatia: Learning the Art of Fresco

July 21, 2015 By Jessica McAvoy Leave a Comment

Frescoes are created by applying pigment to a damp wall surface of plaster (usually made by limestone or marble dust and water). They have been used during the centuries for purely decorative to the illustration of political or religious doctrine. The frescoes we viewed in Istria were created during Medieval times in small Gothic churches as a means to explain the stories of Christianity to illiterate parishioners.

When we checked into our accommodation in Bertoši located near the center of Istria in Croatia, our host asked us about our interests. To see as many frescoes as possible was my reply, of course. She made that happen, and she also connected me with local fresco artist and art professor Hari Vidović.

We arrived in Roč (Rozzo) on a sweltering afternoon and were instructed to meet Hari at the entrance gate. When we got to the town it was quiet and all shutters were drawn closed to keep out the heat. The air was stifling. We waited a minute or two and then around the corner came a gentleman in a puffy green Medieval top, tights, and painter’s cap. It was truly awesome to see him walk over dressed in full ethnic garb. Looking around our moto was the only thing in sight not ancient.

Hari was warm and open (which has been the case of every Croatian person we have met with no exception) and seemed as excited to meet us as we were to meet him. He took us to his studio telling us a bit about the history of Roč along the way. The town contains three churches from the 12th, 14th, and 15th centuries and is surrounded by Medieval walls, a Roman lapidarium, and has a cannon from the years it was apart of the Venetian empire. Hari told us a fantastic legend of a granny that saved the town from a Turkish invasion by filling the cannon with ash and setting it off making the invaders below believe there was an entire army firing down on them.

When we arrived in the studio, we began with a shot of local honey grappa, and an introduction to the materials. On the work table, there were a few tablets illustrating the different stages of surface preparation, as well as jars of pigments and brushes. It had been months since I painted and I was so anxious to get started! But, like everything, first comes preparation.

Hari walked us through the different stages and showed us our surfaces we would be painting on – ceiling terracotta tiles that were a few hundred years old. We applied a layer of gritty plaster made with river sand and water and set out to see the local church where we were given a tour of the frescoes while time worked its magic.

Hari applying a layer of plaster to the surface

When we returned, we applied another layer plaster, this time much silkier and with marble dust added. We had a few minutes while it settled and so we riffled through some images to find what would be our muse and created a template on tracing paper. We began mixing our paints and then placed our templates on top of the surface. Using a toothpick, traced the template into the plaster.

Plaster with limestone and marble dust

Working on the plaster surface was very much like working with watercolor. You start with the lightest colors and work up to the deeper and darker ones with layers. Some translucent, some opaque. After time you begin to feel the moisture dissipating from the surface. At this point, it is time to stop. If you are to go any further you must add a binder to the pigment as it will not absorb.

Pigments

We enjoyed our time with Hari in his studio creating our works of art to take home. Having a hands-on understanding of fresco creation was enlightening. Apart from the painting, we also really enjoyed chatting with Hari. He speaks excellent English as well as Italian, and we had plenty in common with him besides art!

The workshop lasted around 3 hrs or so and cost about 600 or so kuna each (about $90) and was well worth it for the experience. Daryl as a non-artist had a great time, but 3 hours of prep and painting was his limit. I could of stayed an entire day working on my fresco. If you are unhappy with your artistic creation but want a fresco to take home, Hari also has some of his own beautiful frescoes available for purchase in the studio. If you are in the area and are interested in learning more about fresco workshops with Hari email him: hari.vidovic@gmail.com.

Fresco completed during the 3-hour workshop

Frescoes in Croatia: Dance of the Dead, Beram

July 20, 2015 By Jessica McAvoy Leave a Comment

As is the case with most frescoes in Croatia, the Chapel of Our Lady on the Rocks (Crkvica svete Marije na škriljinah, S. Maria delle Lastre) is not easy to visit. You must locate the key keeper to gain access. Sometimes, as in Draguć, the key keeper hands you the key and off you go. Other times, as in Beram (Vermo), you must locate the woman with the key, then she will hop in the car with you and direct you to the church.

The entrance is 20Kuna (about $2.85) per person. Some guidebooks say this is for the time spent by the woman to take you- she told me that this is not the case and all the money goes towards the upkeep of the church. The key keeper does not speak English, but does speak some Italian in addition to Croatian. Our Istrian friend Marijana offered to bring us since I didn’t think the woman would want to hop on the moto…

We went late in the day, around 6:30 PM. The small Gothic church is surrounded by pine trees and there is no electricity. The time of day proved to be a little too late to really view the Dance of the Dead fresco which is located on the west wall of the church, however even in the darkness, the red still vibrated. The rest of the church had enough light coming in to see fairly well. Photographing the walls was not quite successful (I will not use a flash to photograph art as it damages the pigment) and I apologize for the poor quality of the photos. There are two windows on either side of the main door, and there is a second door on the south wall, as well as two windows in the nave allowing light to enter.

The key keeper narrated all the frescoes for us and Marijana translated. We felt very fortunate to be able to communicate with her as we found the story of the church and its frescoes fascinating. She explained to us that during the 18th century the original church had been expanded, the Gothic vault ceiling had been covered by the Baroque tabulas that are seen in there now, two windows were added on either side of the door damaging the frescoes of Adam and Eve, and the Wheel of Fortune, and that also during this time, the frescoes were covered up with mortar and not rediscovered until early in the 20th century.

Detail of the Baroque ceiling

As described by guidebooks and websites the Dance of the Dead frescoes are beautiful. They were created to remind the faithful that everyone is equal in their dance with death; the pauper and the elite alike – all dance together when the time comes. They were vibrant enough for us to see much of the color and detail in the dark space. There was, however, plenty of light enabling us to view the rest of the frescoes. On the north wall is a rendition of the Adoration of the Kings running almost the entire length of the church. Through incredible detail, Kastav and his assistants pay homage to Istrian landscape and seascape by illustrating native flora and fauna, and the culture of the people painted in the traditional clothing of his time.

The south wall tells the story of the life of Mary in addition to other stories from the New Testament. For me, the most beautiful of the frescoes is a rendition of Veronica’s Veil in the underside of the arch over the entrance door. I was amazed at what great condition it is in.

I found the following website which I recommend checking out if you want to see more photos and descriptions of the frescoes, as well as history of the church itself. It also contains photos of the Dance of the Dead fresco which I was unable to photograph due to the lack of light. http://www.istrianet.org/istria/architecture/churches/beram/murals-descriptions.htm

Veronica’s Veil

Frescoes in Istria Croatia: St. Rok of Draguć

July 19, 2015 By Jessica McAvoy Leave a Comment

Istria is littered with outstanding frescoes. The trick is to be persistent enough to find the key. Draguć (or Draguccio in Italian) is a tiny town near the center of Istria, Croatia. There are two small Medieval churches containing frescoes in opposite directions on the outskirts of what remains of the fortified city. When you enter with your car there is a graveyard and small church, St. Elisia (XIII c.), on your right side. You then come to an open area to park and a map of the village and its sights. Unfortunately, a few weeks prior to our visit the roof of St. Elisia fell in so we were unable to view the inside. Hopefully the damage was not to severe to the frescoes.

Finding the key to gain access to frescoes in Istria Croatia can be a challenge.

We were very fortunate to be wandering around with our new Croatian friend, Marijana, and her Bernese Mountain Dog, Misha. Marijana had wanted to take me to the newly opened House of Frescoes (which had an opening that she had read about, but when we arrived learned it is not actually opened to the public yet). She quickly started asking people she saw how to obtain the key to the church on the opposite side of town, St. Rok (aka St. Rocco, or St. Roch). We found out the key was being held at house #40 (always ask around as key responsibility shifts). She exchanged pleasantries, obtained a Medieval iron key the size of my face, and off we went!

Approaching the exterior of the church is nothing short of a fairy tale – the church is perched atop the hill with views of the valley all around. We arrived later in the day so the sun and daylight were low on the horizon. Putting the key in the door, adrenaline was rushing through my body and I could not get the key to catch! I had no idea what to expect. When the door finally opened I was amazed by the wonderful condition the frescoes were in. The door has a small window that is open to the elements with the exception of iron bars, and there is also a small open window on one side.

The Church of St. Rok with frescoes in Istria, Croatia

The Church of St. Rok located in Istria, Croatia

The frescoes inside created by Antonio da Padova are immaculate considering they date from early 16th century and exposed to the elements through this door and window. A local fresco artist, Hari Vidović, which I had the pleasure to take a fresco workshop with, explained to me that St. Roch was the patron saint called upon to protect again the Plague. As such there are many churches dedicated to his honor throughout Istria, and Croatia as a whole.

Interior view of the Church of St. Rok, Draguc, with frescoes in Istria, Croatia.

Interior view of the Church of St. Rok, Draguc, Istria, Croatia.

When we opened the door the light rushed in around us. As with any art I view, I will not take photo with a flash. I am not a photographer, so I apologize for the poor quality of photos. I hope you at least get an idea of what we saw from them.

Ceiling section in the Church of St. Roc, Draguc, with frescoes in Istria, Croatia.

Ceiling section in the Church of St. Roc, Draguc, Istria, Croatia.

Never did I imagine that the sleepy village of Draguc would still be protecting such beautiful frescoes.

We were greeted with still vivid earth tones in an almost entirely covered interior. I am not exaggerating by saying my breath was taken away and I had tears in my eyes. There were locations where time and water damage have removed the surface but overall the condition was remarkable. There were also places at shoulder height where the frescoes have been covered in graffiti over time. I tend to find the graffiti exciting to look at and a raw illustration of time and place.

Graffiti from 1623 on fresco

Yes, looking at beautifully restored frescoes can be exhilarating. But in Croatia, seeing the time worn surface of the original hand, in a church that requires a hunt, is incredibly rewarding.

Close up of one of the frescos

Frescoes in Italy: Orvieto

May 20, 2015 By Jessica McAvoy Leave a Comment

Lavishly decorated and with no inch untouched, construction of the Duomo di Orvieto (Cathedral of Orvieto) began in 1290 and spanned several centuries. The cathedral is a bounty of artistic and architectural beauty that began in the Romanesque style and was completed in the Gothic style. The facade glistens in the sun and is balanced by 20th century bronze doors, a rose window, and bas-relief carvings. You enter through the main facade which gives you a true sense of scale. This space, like most of Italy’s cathedrals, was designed to make you feel humble and in awe. It does not disappoint on either front.

Facade of the Duomo of Orvieto dedicated to the Our Lady of the Assumption.

Once inside you can drop some Euro into a a machine that looks like an old payphone and view details of the cathedral along with commentary. When you get your fill of the digital era, you can walk right up and view the frescoes (I recommend saving your money and just doing this in the first place). Each chapel is covered with frescoes, all worth a look. The star of the visit for me though is the Cappella di San Brizio, also known as the Signorelli Chapel or the Cappella Nuova.

The chapel nave contains frescoes by Fra Angelico and Benozzo Gonzzoli. Shortly after production began, these two gentlemen were called to the Vatican by the Pope and the chapel frescoes went unfinished. Luca Signorelli was contracted approximately 50 years later to complete the task. He (and his studio) went on to create an intricate illustration of preaching, the Last Judgement, entry to Hell and more.

When I visit cathedrals I take notice of how the artists created the works to specifically relate to the lighting situations found in the surrounding space. Now these pieces are all artificially lit with spotlights, however I view the light coming in the space through the surrounding windows and understand how that light in particular (along with few candle offerings) was the only source of light highlighting the work for centuries. Artists at the time were aware of how to maximize the dramatic effect of their works by consciously designing the highlighted locations within in the frescoes to enable the natural light to make the most impact visually. The photo below shows the unfortunate spotlight located at the left lower side of the window and the strong afternoon light flooding in.

The Signorelli Chapel in the Orvieto Cathedral illustrating the spotlight as well as the natural light filling the space.

The lighting and shadow in the frescoes are addressed in relationship to the direction of the light flooding in the space from the window. This photo was taken in the afternoon. Take notice of the “line” of light haphazardly created by the spotlight. While I am grateful that lighting allows us to fully appreciate the works, there was a time when you had to drop a coin in a box to turn the light on in many cathedrals. This allowed you to view the frescoes both naturally and artificially.

The chapel has a time limit of 15 minutes for viewing with a set maximum number of people that can enter at a time. If you see a tour group inside just hold off for a few minutes and enter after they exit. In my experience the guards will allow you to look longer if you are visiting at off-peak times (first thing in the morning or after 3 pm). To really study all the frescoes inside the cathedral I would allow at least two hours. For a brief gaze a half hour to hour should suffice. For more information visit http://www.opsm.it/.

Frescoes in Italy: Assisi

May 16, 2015 By Jessica McAvoy Leave a Comment

The first thing you notice when you are approaching Assisi is how beautiful it is perched in the distance. Then, after being welcomed in many languages on various electronic signs, you notice how beautiful it is right in front of you. Take note of how well manicured all the gardens are and how clean the sidewalks are. This my friend is for you, the tourist, the person who has come to visit the Basilica di San Francesco (St. Francis).

St Francis of Assisi Bascilica

The building of Assisi’s pride and joy began in mid to late 1220s shortly after the canonization of St. Francis. He was secretly laid to rest here for fear his remains would be looted. The exact location of his final rest was only re-discovered in the early 1800s.

As you enter the nave of the upper basilica you are hugged by beauty. Frescoes surround you. There will undoubtedly be a tour group or a few in the space. Be patient as they will only look for a minute and move on. The upper section is believed to be the work of Giacomo, Jacopo Torriti, Pietro Cavallini, and Giotto (or not).

The lower section contains 28 frescoes of the life of St. Francis and art historians have quarreled for years if these are from hands of Giotto. Really, it does not matter. They are beautiful and exquisite.

In 1997 the upper Basilica was heavily damaged by an earthquake. Four lives were lost in the nave that day when a Cimabue fresco came crashing down. Walking through this space gazing up and around it is hard to not contemplate how the years of painstaking restoration following the earthquake may have forever altered for good or bad the frescoes. According to reports by the BBC over 300,00 fragments, many smaller than a fingernail, have been pieced back together. Photographer Ghigo Roli had just completed photographing all the frescoes inside the Basilica hours before the earthquake hit. His photos ended up to be priceless for the reconstruction efforts. Images of before and after can be seen in the book The Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi : glory and destruction.

Earlier this year I read an Artnet News article that referred to claims an Italian newspaper made that the frescoes were destroyed by the restoration process. There will always be a risk in preservation leading to destruction, but we must ask ourselves is the alternative, simply just allowing destruction to occur, a better course of action?

Giotto & Cimabue

The lower basilica is outstanding as well. There are three entrances, one which brings you right in front of a magical wall. Giotto and Cimabue, side by side. Teacher and student. I often avoid places that are over-run by tour groups. Assisi is one place I will never avoid. If you plan to truly look at each fresco allow yourself half to a whole day to visit. To just breeze through and enjoy gazing I suggest budgeting 1 to 2 hours.

For more information about Assisi visit assisionline.com.

Big Island Wood Turners Club Exhibit

March 7, 2015 By Jessica McAvoy 1 Comment

Earlier this week we decided to sneak away from endless bouts of snow and cold to the land where palm trees sway. You guessed it… Hawaii! We got on the plane looking for summer and everything that accompanies – swimming in the ocean to fresh fruits and veggies. Yesterday we drove from Waikoloa on the northwest coast to the southernmost point in the USA, Ka Lae. I had read in one of tourist magazines about the 17th Annual Big Island Wood Turners Club exhibit at the Wailoa Arts and Cultural Center in Hilo. We are always mesmerized by the wood work we see here so we decided to go the long way around the island and check it out.

The quality of the wood work is outstanding. I always fall in love with the eloquent Koa wood rocking chairs and can justify why I need one… believe me, these are no Crackerbarrel front porch rockers. Every curve is meticulously carved and the joints are impeccable. If furniture is not your thing, there are tons of wood pens, decorative boxes, vessels, bowls, sculptures, paddles, and wall pieces to eye up.

All of the pieces in the Big Island Wood Turners Club exhibit must have some part of their creation made from use of a lathe. Koa wood, norfolk pine, avocado, mango, and jarcaranda are just a few of the species the artisans use. Most of the pieces in the show are traditional style vessels such as bowls, lidded boxes, and pens, but there are some non-functional sculptural pieces as well. There are a number of bowls turned out of of a single wood species of wood and polished so smooth you can see your reflection and could be mistaken for porcelain. Others are designed of multiple woods, with inlays and patterns, and even some with unfinished edges. The characters of the different wood species are explored by the artists.

We worked our way around the exhibition and in the lower level we noticed a makeshift wood shop set up. We wandered our way down. That is where we met Doug.

Doug Leiteo is the current President and the non-profit organization’s co-founder. About 20 years ago he and a few of his turning buddies decided to form the Big Island Wood Turners Club. When we first approached his work area he was finishing up his lunch and we were trying not to bother him – Daryl asked a question or two and then he opened up and started showing us his custom rosette cutter/die. He designed the machine and built it to fit his needs.

Doug started out as a US Navy mechanic and then opened his own machine shop where he worked on all sorts of projects but loved drag racing and engine work. His face lit up as he told us his story of where he has been and what he has worked on. Currently he is designing and building a custom glass blowing lathe.