Explore Italian Food, Bologna Style, Parmigiano Reggiano, Part 2

June 4, 2016 By Jessica McAvoy 2 Comments

The first stop on the Italian Days Food Tour was a family-run factory making the king of cheese, Parmigiano Reggiano DOP (parmesan as most Americans call it). You could smell a very distinct smell outside the factory. This was Parmigiano. As a scent sensitive gal, I feared this moment since the day I booked the tour, but the smell was completely different than what I feared.

Cheese never entirely agreed with me growing up, so I never took a liking to it. Then, one day I started eating “real” cheeses, and it turns out that it wasn’t the cheese of my youth that disagreed with me, but more likely the fact that I wasn’t eating cheese at all. My mom never liked cheese, so we never ate it, other than grilled cheese sandwiches made with American cheese food product in white or yellow. Each slice was very conveniently individually wrapped.

My childhood convinced me that I did not like cheese. We also had in the fridge a plastic jar of parmesan cheese for my dad. I cringed every time he pulled it out. I hated the smell, despised it even. It reminded me of the odor that permeated when he would take his work boots off at the end of the day. My sister and I would both wince and tell him to please, for the love of God, put your boots outside.

I was pleased to experience that it was not the same smell. The smell was slightly sweet, nutty, and a bit foxy. I will admit though, by the end of the tour it was wearing on me. Much like any strange smell does after a long dose of exposure.

Cheesemakers pull Parmigiano Reggiano out of cauldron on the Italian Days Food Tour

Head Cheesemaker and his assistant pulling the Parmigiano Reggiano out of the cauldron

Ever the light packer, I had two pairs of shoes to select from for the day. Strappy flat leather sandals and hiking sneaks. I chose to wear the former and instantly regretted it. We entered the factory, and a slurry of milky-whey-watery substance that was all over the floor licked the sides of my feet. Lesson learned closed shoes next time you visit a cheese factory.

Except for the slurry, the factory was immaculate. White tile floor and walls and shiny polished stainless steel work surfaces everywhere. Cheese balls were being produced in large copper cauldrons about 6+ feet deep. About 2 1/2 to 3 feet were above ground and about the same or more recessed below the surface.

Unlike other cheese tours, this one presented the entire production process. Morning milk delivery, whey separation, cheese ball pull out and forming, salt bath soak, aging, wheel rotation, and brushing.

We learned all the production steps and tradition that separates Parmigiano Reggiano DOP from just cheese.

It was an honor to meet the head cheesemaker, and if I recall correctly, he has not taken a single day off in over thirty years. He was what I would picture if someone said to imagine the “head cheesemaker.” A happy man, but very serious. It was as if the world was on his shoulders. Each day’s milk delivery turns to tomorrow’s cheese production. If he halts production even one day, he stops the entire process.

There were millions of Euros of cheese wheels aging. Yep, the crap in the plastic container at the grocery store is just that, crap. And, of course, we tasted the amazing cheese. Then the real tasting, Parmigiano Reggiano DOP aged for over 12 years, 20 years, 22 years, and the king, aged over 30 years. Complex, nutty, and refined, we washed it down with beautiful, slightly frizzante local Lambrusco.

Parmigiano Reggiano wheels curing in a salt bath

Back in the van, we were off to a family’s villa that has been producing balsamic vinegar in the traditional method for over 200 years. Explore Italian Food, Bologna Style, Aceto Balsamico di Modena, Part 3

Part 1 of 3: Explore Italian Food, Bologna Style with Italian Days Food Tour
Part 3 of 3: Explore Italian Food, Bologna Style, Aceto Balsamico

Explore Italian Food, Bologna Style

June 4, 2016 By Jessica McAvoy 3 Comments

Some travel experiences have no price tag. These are very rarely tours for us. We’ve had a few meh experiences over the years. It turned us off. The whole idea of spending money to be stuck with a group of people you may or may not hit it off with, and a guide you may or may not relate to, well, is just not worth it. Or at least that’s how we felt until we decided to explore Italian food, Bologna style, with Italian Days Food Tour.

Bologna is in the heart of Emilia-Romagna. Easily one of my top 5 favorite Italian cities for all the usual reasons–art, food, wine–and repeat. Home to what is said to be the oldest university in the world. You pass by smart and sophisticated people on your passeggiare under the labyrinth of covered porticoes. The city is roofed with red terracotta tiles and is strikingly beautiful.

Iconic Red Terracotta Roofs in Bologna, Italy

Art and music abound here. There is a museum dedicated to the still life paintings of Bologna’s own Giorgio Morandi. This city is home to the best damn bolognese sauce. It is, after all, named after the place. For us, priceless travel experiences are always art or food related. Recently I opened a bottle of extra vecchio Aceto Balsamico di Modena that I picked up on this tour and food is passion again for me. This tour opened a door for a genuine appreciation of traditional food production.

It has been a few years since we went on the Italian Days Food Tour yet I still recommend it, with flying hand gestures, to everyone that tells me they will be in Italy.

Going to Puglia all the way in the boot’s heel? I don’t give a shit. I’m still going to tell you to go to Emilia-Romagna and explore Italian food, Bologna style.

So now you ask, what makes this tour so amazing? And no, the company did not compensate me (except for two tickets to the New York Times Travel Show this past January that anyone in the area could get from them), so nope, that is not the answer.

Enter Alessandro Martini, the food-loving mastermind behind this company.

When we took the tour, he had only location going–Bologna. You had two choices, with or without prosciutto farm. With a larger than life personality, it’s no wonder that over the years he has built an empire staffed with food and culture passionate people all around Italy. They are ready to assist you in exploring your Italian desires.

Three things separate him from others giving tours: passion, experience, and connection. He works intimately with small, family producers that create fantastic food using traditional methods. He breathes, sleeps, and of course, eats DOP. Alessandro’s excitement is contagious. You suck up the energy he puts out with every gestural sentence. I do not have one photo of him standing still. Decked out in a sports coat over a graphic tee filled with illustrations of Ray-Bans, and of course, like any civilized Italian, he was wearing a pair of said glasses as well.

Italian Days Food Tour Owner and Guide Alessandro Explains Parmigiano Reggiano

Alessandro, the passionate foodie mastermind behind Italian Days Food Tour

We popped by his booth at this year’s New York Times Travel Show to say hi. Yep, still sporting his fun-loving personality. He told us the Bologna food tour pretty much operates the same (with the addition of white coats, booties, and hairnets).

We first met Alessandro on a May 2017 morning. It was before 7 AM when his sprinter van driver picked showed up at our hotel. There were about 12 of us total. Instantly, we hit it off with the others and realized they were our people! We were all lovers of food ready to fill our senses with whatever Alessandro had planned.

In the van, Alessandro got us all talking-before 7 am-to one another. What?! That’s crazy! Yep, I know.

We learned the difference between I.G.P (indicazion geografica protetta) and DOP (denomainazione di origine protetta), and the importance of DOP certification. Alessandro made everyone feel comfortable. He asked questions and listened. The old-fashioned kind of listening, you know, when a conversation is interactive and not just one waiting for an opening to talk. We learned about each other, what we all did for a living, and a bit about each of our passions for food and life. The lush countryside moved by outside; rolling hills of kelly green grass, and big puffy clouds in the sky. We had no idea what the day would bring us but felt pretty good already that it would be outstanding.

Then we arrived at our first stop, a factory that makes Parmigiano Reggiano, the king of Italian Cheeses. Explore Italian Food, Bologna Style II, Parmigiano Reggiano

Part 2 of 3: Explore Italian Food, Bologna Style, Parmigiano Reggiano DOP
Part 3 of 3: Explore Italian Food, Bologna Style, Aceto Balsamico

One Drop of Balsamic Vinegar and Food is Passion Again

May 15, 2016 By Jessica McAvoy 2 Comments

A few nights ago, for the first time in a long time, I opened up our extra vecchio aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena D.O.P., aka extra old balsamic vinegar, aka some mind-blowing sh**. We purchased a botted aged for well over 25 years, the family that created it said well over 125 years. Anything more than 25 we just have to take their word for as there is no way to know for sure. We share it with very close foodie friends, and only pull it out for our indulgences on select cuisine occasions. Layers of complexity tasting of figs, cherries, and chocolate just to name a few. The tartness hits you in the right spot on your tongue. There is not the same acid that you experience with supermarket balsamic vinegar which is mostly “cooked” with additives like caramel. Just layers and layers of tradition.

The first touch of the syrupy goodness on my tongue causes my eyes to close and my lips to quiver. One drop of balsamic vinegar and food is passion again.

Extra Vecchio Aceto Balsamico DOP di Modena, Balsamic Vinegar Food is Passion

One taste of balsamic vinegar from Modena and food is passion again.

I have had the joyless experience of spending the entire year up until now on a massive sugar restricted diet. Yeah for my waistline. Boo for my taste buds. For six months while traveling, I obsessively ate truffles. Could this have been the cause of my lovely bout of thrush? Who knows. But as a result, I have had to eat an anti-candida diet. If you have never had this pleasure, be thankful. If you have, I feel your pain. Therefore, this stripped much joy from my life. Yes, non-foodie people right now are saying “quit your complaining, it’s not that big of a deal.” Maybe not, except everything you put in your mouth causes pain and discomfort. Bless you, my food allergic friends. I never understood quite how difficult life was for you. I feel unwavering compassion for you now.

For me, food is the key that unlocks memories of living in a particular time, place, and culture. Food is passion.

I was forced to drive across country with a salad spinner in the back seat. Our stop in New Orleans was spent with me depressingly walking by one restaurant after another that has always been on my food “must do” list. To put the anti-candida diet into some perspective for those that have never experienced it–it is so restrictive I lost 50 lbs in the first seven weeks. Swallow that for a second. It is a lot of weight in a short period. Finally, I leveled off after that. Once the outbreaks stopped, I developed a new assault on my taste buds. Geographic tongue. Google that. Not fun for a foodie either.

This past week I noticed my taste buds started enjoying life again, so I started eating a variety of foods. Mostly my favorites found here on the Big Island of Hawaii that I have been looking past since arriving. Some of this week’s indulgences include malasadas, passion orange guava juice, and a bottle of Chablis. And tonight I will crack open our final remaining gourmet mustard from Fallot–a pinot noir mutard.

Suffice to say I am already 5 pounds heavier… and food is passion once again for me.

Malasada Fills Your Sugary, Fluffly, Deep-Fried Cravings in Hawaii

May 13, 2016 By Jessica McAvoy 1 Comment

If you love fried dough, the warm brown paper bag they hand you should make your heart flutter. Oil will have already started to bleed through the little sack. The malasada feels heavy and warm in your hand and the yeasty sweet smell whirls around you. I warn you, this post is just a selfish, gluttonous look at my favorite sweet treat on the Big Island of Hawaii. There is no content here, just pure indulgence.

This, my friend, is what you experience when you are handed your first malasada at TEX Drive-In.

Chocolate Malasada from TEX Drive-In

Crispy on the outside and fluffy-flaky on the inside. The best and only way to enjoy one is fresh. TEX Drive-In in Honoka’a is where we go when we have a sweet craving–and yes, we are nuts because they are 45 minutes away. You can watch the production process live through a plexiglass wall. This yeast-based deep-fried dough arrived with the Portuguese plantation workers in the 1870’s. A finely crystalized sugar coats the exterior. Traditionalists say no filling. I say yes, please. Chocolate or vanilla custard, and tropical jellies like guava, lilikoi (passion fruit), and mango all please the palate.

And yes, TEX Drive-In has a food menu for breakfast, lunch, and dinner featuring local cuisine. And nope, we never have a plate lunch. Just malasada fix.

$Tex Drive In Kitchen$

Malasada making magic happening at TEX Drive-In

Complications of Settling on the Big Island of Hawaii

May 13, 2016 By Jessica McAvoy Leave a Comment

We have been residents on the Big Island of Hawaii for over three months now. Warm and sunny every day really suits us well. Even though we had well over a year to “decompress” with our travels through Europe and the US’ east coast, we realized that living as nomads was in no way decompressing. For two NYers, the move to a rock in the middle of the Pacific has in not been simple. Although, I’m sure no relocation out of state is easy.

For the first two months, every day revolved around the essentials–finding jobs, securing a place to live, registering the car–and on it goes. Again, I am sure this is the case with any move. But, things happen slowly here. Getting the basics figured out has been challenging. Beach? What beach? There’s no time for that.

Life is complicated on a rock in the Pacific.

For starters, Mother Nature puts on a show 24×7. She never waivers in Hawaii. Finding focus is difficult while surrounded by her glory at every turn. For my readers that live in a climate with a defined summer season, think about the way you feel all summer. Long warm days that linger into the night. Time feels like it is always on your side; every day moves slowly in the summer.

Yeah, that feeling, but 365. In the scheme of things, this a big plus, and one of the main reasons why we wanted to live on the Big Island. For settling-in, this is a big negative and partly why so complicated. There is no rush for anything anywhere.

Mother Nature is always giving a show with amazing displays of color and light in the sky over Hawaii.

It is difficult to establish an address until you have an address.

You cannot get a US postal box without an address in the state and proof of said address. Technically, the same applies to UPS boxes, but luckily it just depends on the person at the counter. The chances that you will get a call back for a job here without a local address on your application are super slim. Registering and insuring a car can be just as complicated for the same reasons. Luckily, the woman that owned the Airbnb we stayed in was willing to let us use her address to get the ball rolling.

Although there is help wanted signs everywhere, securing a job is not that easy here.

Assume your resume will be ignored until you live here. There is the matter of the address part above. Then, when you get past that, and the interviewer asks you how long you’ve been here, and you answer… they will sigh. Finally, consider yourself lucky if you make it to the grilling on how determined you are to stay.

What if you don’t know? What if maybe for now, or maybe forever? Really, what does it matter if you will live on the Big Island for one year, or three, or more, if you’re qualified for the job?

As it turns out, here on the Big Island, the population is either transient or generational. What we have experienced is a lack of qualified people for many open positions and an over-abundance of over-qualified people for others. We thought, “oh we will just get jobs, like washing dishes or ringing up groceries.” Well, in more major towns like Kona or Hilo this may be the case, but elsewhere it’s less the case.

No, they are not going to call you to be a dishwasher at the local restaurant or cashier in the local grocery store. Even though those jobs are vacant, they are vacant on a rolling basis, until a local person applies. Local being that you have lived here forever, or know the right person that has and can make a call on the good ol’ coconut wireless on your behalf. I understand this, and frankly think it’s essential to the existing communities.

Once we started looking at the transient tourism hubs, we found opportunities all around. The key we have learned is to be persistent. You have to be willing to work for opportunity and show it means something to you. Follow up, follow up, follow up.

Highway through lava field on the Big Island of Hawaii.

Driving 40 minutes through Hawaii’s lava fields with only cows and goats as your companion is completely different than sitting in 40 minutes of Long Island traffic to get to work.

We have noticed the system on the Big Island seems to make it difficult to sink your heels in and get settled. The island can chew people up and spit them out.

Take housing for example. It is an incredibly tight rental market, but there are many places like that. With some cash in the bank, we did not arrive worried. Then reality hit us.

Rentals operated through agencies require two months of pay-stubs showing 3x rent as income. That is right, 2 full months of 3xs rent. What does that mean? It means that if you get a job on the day you arrive, you must have that job for two months before applying for a place to live. That’s assuming you then find a place you want to be, and that you get a good paying job on day one.

Thinking this was no problem for us and that we would just pay a six month or 12-month lease in full. Nope. Rental management agencies will not even consider it. Having a job but short the 3xs rent in income still is a no-go for pre-payment.

So what did this mean for us?

We lived in an Airbnb rental for two months and scoured the s out of craigslist for a private apartment. We were in a beautiful studio owned by a lovely woman, but a vacation rental at vacation rental prices, in Hawaii. No Bueno. We had initially planned this situation for one month with the intention of paying a lease in full. We ended up there for two. Each month was equivalent to about three month’s worth of rent in one swoop. And there went a good portion of our safety net.

Scouring craigslist in a tight rental market is a ball of fun. You might call and email a dozen listings the day they are posted only to get no reply. If they do respond, they tell you space is no longer vacant. Or, as we experienced a few times, no response, then a re-listing a few days or a week later of the same unit. Why? Because there was no rush to call people back, no rush to fill their vacancy. They might want a tenant who has been on the island for more than a year or two. Or even more than six months. Worry about it another day; the surf is good today kind of way about things. Womp, womp, womp.

From this, we learned to be quick and persistent. We started emailing, texting, and calling the instant we saw a listing. Then, if we didn’t hear back, our NYerisms would kick in, and we would reach out again the next day, and the next. At least we’d have the opportunity to view spaces and be considered for them.

Then, one day, it all seemed to gel.

We found the perfect listing and instantly connected with the owner. And just like that, one phone call, one in-person meeting, and we had a place to live. We were ok that it was in a suburban neighborhood–even though suburbia was originally on the top of the NO list–we envisioned a rental house in the middle of the country with fruit trees out back and a walk to the main street. Oh, and we weren’t even scared when we realized the keys didn’t work…. hahaha that was a funny moment!

For now, we are pleased in our studio 10 minutes from the beach in the middle of a lava desert. It is a good space and suits us well. We are adjusting and enjoying the slow pace. It is not so shocking now to drive for 40 minutes through a lava field and only see cattle or goats. I have since left that commission job and focus on my copywriting business www.bestdarncopywriter.com. We are starting to feel settled and even beginning to make some friends.

Now that the live/work part seems to be under control we can focus more on the play part. That is, after all why we moved halfway around the world.

Hanging out at A-bay on the Big Island of Hawaii.

Normandy Bed and Breakfast Rosebud in Honfleur

April 23, 2016 By Jessica McAvoy 1 Comment

A variety of bed and breakfasts, inns, small hotels and guest homes abound in Normandy. Just like anywhere else, some will be what you imagine and some not so much. Honfleur is a charming home base for Normandy exploration and home to our favorite bed and breakfast in the region, the Chambres d’hôtes Rosebud. A short stroll from Le Vieux Bassin and the heart of the city yet on the outskirts making getting back on the road a cinch.

A home redesigned, one slow room at a time makes this our favorite Normandy bed and breakfast.

Madame Barberi-Le Cesne Françoise raised her children in this home while she worked full time. As her children grew up and moved on, she painstakingly renovated one room at a time creating this Normandy bed and breakfast as it is today. When the first room and then second became available, she balanced working part-time with running the B&B. With all the rooms complete, she now runs Rosebud full time.

The gardens are elegant. A massive stone wall and metal gate hide the home and driveway. You don’t know what to expect as Madame opens it. And it is magical! Wisteria, lavender and herbs, clematis, peonies, lilies, manicured shrubs, and fruit trees greet you. The garden feast continues with the addition of varieties of palm trees, hidden corners with sling back chairs for relaxing in, and paths for wandering. When we arrived, the garden was busting with Iris’, tulips and daffodils. Year-round beautiful weather in the garden invites you to enjoy breakfast surrounded by blooms.

French garden glamour shot

Each room’s design is indeed a labor of love.

They reflect Madame Barberi-Le Cesne Françoise’s love of art and beautiful things–she is an artist herself. For the design-savvy traveler, this French bed and breakfast’s decor is no disappointment! Each room is treated as importantly as the master bedroom of the home. Layered pieces of fine art adorn fireplaces and nooks; sculptures sitting atop the dresser have an aesthetic purpose and guide the eye to somewhere else in the room. Art books with pages marked indicating pieces located in the region’s museums and castles are stacked upon the room’s writing desk and side tables. Layers and textures in the rooms’ decor bring the senses to life. You climb into soft luxurious bedding topped with a faux fur throw blanket at the end of a hard day of viewing art, strolling, and dining.

Comfortable bed in Normandy Bed and Breakfast Rosebud, Honfleur, Frace

Faux fur and soft sheets call to you after a day of viewing art, dining, and strolling

French breakfast at Rosebud is heavenly.

Breakfast is delightful. Fresh juice, pastries, croissants, jams, yogurt, and fruit delivered as you sit down. Madame will ask you your tea or cafe preference, and if you would like meats or cheese, and wait for it… if you would like, and more importantly, how you would like, your eggs cooked! In France! At a Normandy bed and breakfast! Not for me, but for each his own.

There is a small covered garage for parking diagonally across the street. We parked our motorcycle right in the garden behind the home. Madame Barberi-Le Cesne Françoise is charming, and a stay at Bed and Breakfast Rosebud is how a stay in France should be–a feast for the senses.

Our BMW GS Moto parked in the Bed and Breakfast Rosebud’s back garden

Stay here for a few nights and linger. Full disclaimer – I have no affiliation with this b&b and receive no compensation for recommending you stay here. I just love the Bed, and Breakfast Rosebud want to share it with you.

Honfleur, France – A Charming Normandy Base

April 22, 2016 By Jessica McAvoy 1 Comment

With slate and timber architecture and picturesque harbor reflections, Honfleur, France has always been a magnet for artists. Claude Monet, Gustav Courbet, and Eugène Boudin developed impressionism with Le Vieux Bassin (the old basin) as inspiration. A Parisian friend suggested Honfleur, France as a nice Normandy base and she was so right! This city is located across the river Seine from le Havre, and just a scenic drive away from the beaches of Normandy and the Cavaldos cider (cidre in French) region. After a few glasses of cidre we wandered around and watched the plein air painters in action.

Reflection of Normandy base for exploration, Honfleur's architecture in the harbor water.

Honfeur’s Le Vieux Bassin, or the Old Basin is home to sailboats, cafes, Normandy architecture, and a carousel

Honfleur Exploration and Beyond from this Normandy Base

Honfleur has plenty to see, eat, drink, and enjoy. The city is home to a few small museums including Musée Eugène Boudin which features the works of impressionist artists, and Musée de la Marine telling the story of Honfleur’s maritime history. France’s largest wooden church, Saint Catherine’s, also calls Honfleur home.

Le Vieux Bassin (the old basin or harbor) is the heart of the city. Once a merchant and fishing port, the harbor is now home to yachts and sailboats. Restaurants that tempt the taste-buds line the sidewalks and show off buckets of mussels and fresh fish. Don’t arrive ravishingly hungry–you do not want to stop at the first place you pass by. The view is worth so much that not all restaurants here are up to par. That being said, the ones that certainly deserve your taste buds’ attention. We had a fantastic dish featuring skate (ray in French). I have seen Jacques Pépin prepare it on his cooking show and watched my husband toss many a skate back into the Atlantic Ocean when fishing on Long Island, NY. This fish smothered in white wine, butter, and caper sauce is nothing short of outstanding!

A look at an old building in Honfleur, France, Normandy base for exploration.

Slate, stucco, timber, and brick Normandy architecture throughout the city of Honfleur

Bed and Breakfast Rosebud

Honfleur is home to a host of bed and breakfasts, inns, small hotels, and guest homes. Our favorite stay is at the Chambres d’hôtes Rosebud. A short stroll from Le Vieux Bassin and the attractions of the city yet on the outskirts enough to make getting back on the road a cinch.

Le Havre

Just across the river by bus or taxi is France’s second busiest port, Le Havre. Musee d’art moderne Andre Malraux (MuMa) is the shining star of this city for any impressionist buff. The museum was initially built in 1845 and was utterly destroyed in the bombings of World War II. Re-built in 1951, and then restructured between 1995-1999, the museum is now a clean, contemporary building allowing the country’s most extensive impressionism collection of art to speak for itself.

Cider Trail

The Calvados region of Normandy is home to some of the world’s best cider. The Normandy tourism board has worked with the orchids to create wonderful itineraries of visiting and tasting along this 25-mile route through Pays d’Auge. Many of the mills require appointments so stop by a tourist info building to get things off to the right start.

Hens at Cider Orchid in Calvados, France, easy to reach from Normandy base Honfleur.

Hens clucking around outside of a cider mill in Cavaldos

D-Day Landing Beaches of Normandy

There are five main D-Day Landing Beaches: Sword Beach, Juno Beach, Gold Beach, Omaha Beach, Utah Beach. The beaches and towns along the coast are dotted with cemeteries, museums, and memorials. They are all moving, and it can be an emotionally draining day. If you are visiting the region to pay homage to a loved one or looking to view something specific start with the particular site you came to see so that you are not too exhausted. I also recommend hiring a tour–private or group–if you are looking to gain something specific out of your experience as it can be overwhelming. If you are visiting to pay your respects and learn more about this historical place and time you should be fine on your own. Either way, visit a tourist info point first to gain your bearings.

D-day landing beach in easy to reach from Normandy base of Honfleur.

Flags wave proudly in the breeze on one of Normandy’s D-Day landing beaches

3 Tips for Monet’s Gardens in Giverny, France

April 16, 2016 By Jessica McAvoy Leave a Comment

Violas stand proud like little soldiers guarding tulips in every color of the rainbow. There is no doubt that Giverny, France is beautiful, and each variety of plant that greets you has a distinct personality. Plenty of time can be spent daydreaming while looking across the pond at Monet’s water lilies and seeing the famous Japanese bridge. But, unfortunately, time is often limited on vacation. You want to make the most out of every day. Had we planned a little better, we would not have spent an extra half of a day figuring things out. Just three simple tips for visiting Monet’s gardens would have made all the difference on our visit.

Japanese Bridge, Monet Garden Giverny France

A look across the water lily pond to the Japanese bridge in Monet’s Garden, Giverny, France

We left Honfleur in the late morning with the intent to stop in Giverny en route to Paris. This stop was the start of our trip, so we still had three seasons of clothes and too much junk on our moto. Every stop felt a little like a hassle. We were paranoid about leaving our things unattended. All of our gear was still shiny and new and screaming “come on, you know you want this fabulous silver tron-like jacket!” Nothing like the end of the journey when we doubled back through France—the same jacket was so dirty and crusty the flies were hovering above. No joke.

Having been to Paris before I knew (at least I thought I knew) what I wanted to see again. Unfortunately, I ignored planning anything before or after Paris. I kept telling myself I would research when we were in Ireland the month before. Instead, I spent my Irish time doing Irish things. This set us up for a string of disappointing days which we did not accomplish or see much of anything. Follow these three tips and avoid the same disappointment.

Giverny tulips in bloom.

Tip #1: Arrive in Giverny First Thing in the Morning

We arrived around noon, and there were more people online than tulips in the gardens. Giverny is best enjoyed within an hour or two of opening. I am not exaggerating. The mass volume of people that arrive within each hour after opening is mind-blowing. The crowds make it difficult to enjoy the serenity of the gardens, let alone make your way through Monet’s home. The site opens at 9:30 am so best to arrive between 9-9:15ish. I know, I know, you are still waiting then, but it is much more pleasant to pause and enter a space that’s empty than a crowded space. Trust me on this.

Monet’s house

Yellow dining room in Monet's Giverny Home.

Monet’s dining room.

Blue and white Rouen tiles adorn the backsplash in Monet's Kitchen.

Kitchen cooktop with blue and white Rouen tiles

Tip #2: Pre-Purchase Your Tickets Online

We quickly learned even if we did get online, there was no guarantee that we would get in as there were so many people ahead of us. Pre-purchased ticket holders use a separate line. The website says no-queuing, but there is a small one. The key here is minor, as in 10 to 20 minutes, unlike hours of waiting. You also have the option to purchase a combo ticket for Monet’s Gardens and the Musée des Impressionnismes in the village. The house and gardens are run by the non-profit organization Foundation Claude Monet. Visit their website, fondation-monet.com/en, to purchase your tickets online.

A look across the tulips in Monet’s garden to his house

Gardens at Giverny

Tip #3: Allow Enough Time to Wander and Enjoy

As I said, we stopped en route to Paris. This means we wanted to be in Paris before rush hour. We had very little time to see anything, let alone enjoy ourselves. Once in the gardens, why would you want to rush?! Take your time and enjoy the beauty and nuances of color and texture surrounding you. Embrace the moment, approach the bridge, wander. Every plant was placed purposely. These carefully designed elements are what influenced Monet’s impressionist paintings. Give these moments the attention they deserve. The village is also home to the Musée des Impressionnismes I mention above, and many shops, artist studios, galleries, and cafés. Give yourself enough time to enjoy the gardens and surrounding village.

So what did we do? We parked the moto, went to the Restaurant Les Nymphéas, had a fantastic quiche lorraine for lunch with a glass of Chablis, and people watched for an hour. We accepted that if we wanted to enjoy Giverny, we would need to sacrifice one of our days in Paris and come back. So, we precisely did just that. We were relaxed and in the right frame of mind to enjoy the tranquility (albeit imagined as so many people really do visit!) that inspired so many magnificent Monet paintings. How long should you allow? At least a half-day, a full day for relaxed daydreaming.

Taking our time wandering thru the tulips in Monet’s Garden, Giverny.

6 Reasons to Visit Conegliano on Your Next Italian Vacation

November 18, 2015 By Jessica McAvoy Leave a Comment

Travelers to Italy’s Veneto region often pass through on a mission to Venice, missing out on the beauty and splendor of the area. This makes Conegliano all the more worth a stop. It is unspoiled and quiet with very few tourists. With a compact historic center, a pedestrian-friendly sprawl surrounding, and a convenient train station, Conegliano is an excellent place to plant yourself and take a few days trips, or just absorb Italian life. There are many reasons that this gem is one of my favorite cities in Italy.

Here are my top six reasons to visit Conegliano on your next Italian Vacation.

6. Conegliano Art

A town in the grips of the powerhouse Venice in its prime, Conegliano has a rich history which means lots of investments in the arts and culture. It is the birthplace of painter Giovanni Battista, known as Cima da Conegliano. Renaissance painter of many religious stories, one masterpiece remains in town, Madonna with Child Enthroned with Saints (La Madonna in Trono e Santi), located in the 15th century Duomo di Santa Maria Annunziata e San Leonardo. To the left of the Duomo is the Scuola dei Battuti, home to the Sala dei Battuti and an engulfing space covered in frescoes. The hours to visit are finicky, and usually only open on Sundays, however outside the door is a phone number you can call to make a reservation.

Frescoes have defied time and mother nature here. You can still see portions on the exteriors of many of the buildings throughout the historic center. That’s right, on the exteriors! Up the hill and overlooking the town is a tower which is all that remains of the castle. Now home to a small Civic Museum, it contains a few gem paintings, fresco fragments, and some archaeological finds. The view of the region from up top is outstanding so take the fifteen-minute walk up and stop in the bar at the top for a glass of Prosecco. If the Prosecco doesn’t already reward you, the 360-degree view at the top of the tower will.

Fresco on the exterior facade of Conegliano’s Duomo di Santa Maria Annunziata e San Leonardo

5. Veneto Wine Region – Strada del Prosecco and Colli Conegliano Valdobbiadene

The Veneto, my friends, is the land of Prosecco, a beautiful DOCG (highest quality classification) wine which comes in three varieties – tranquillo or still, frizzante or slightly sparkling, and spumante or full of sparkle. Conegliano is home to Italy’s most prestigious school of wine, and a viticultural institute where many grape varieties have been bred and a number of native varieties have been saved. It is also from here that you can start the meandering Strada del Prosecco and Colli Conegliano Valdobbiadene. These two intoxicating (only for the passenger) drives take you right through the heart of the Prosecco growing vineyards. As with most regions in Italy, in general, wineries take guests by appointment so make sure and grab a map from your hotel and ask them to assist you in planning the day. If you find yourself without reservations anywhere don’t fret, the drive is beautiful, and in every cafe and restaurant, you are sure to be offered a lovely glass of the local pour.

View of the Veneto region from the top of the tower.

4. Conegliano for Festivals and Events

Throughout the year the people of Conegliano are always finding joy in life and a reason to celebrate. Of course, due to the Prosecco, almost monthly you can find an event in the region celebrating this beautiful wine. All the wine festivities culminate the last week of September with the “Autumn Coneglianese” or a grape festival featuring hundreds of wines and the region’s most distinguished vineyards present for tasting. Each June you can bare witness to the “Living Draughts Game,” or a live chess game with people playing the part of the pieces. During the festival, a Renaissance atmosphere is throughout town. There are also tons of small events happening almost weekly such as a Jazz fest throughout the winter, and music, performance, craft, and food festivals throughout the spring, summer, and fall. Whichever season you find yourself in the neighborhood there is sure to be a reason to celebrate life with the locals.

Lion fresco on the Belvedere Dal Vera entry into the historic center of Conegliano.

3. Amazing Drives and Day-trips Near Conegliano

As I mentioned above, Conegliano is the starting point for the Strada del Prosecco and Colli Conegliano Valdobbiadene taking you on a lovely drive through some of the world’s most beautiful wine country. Located at the foothills of the great Dolomite Mountains, when you head out from Conegliano you can quickly find yourself on scenic drives that would put anyone in awe. Full of grand vistas, grazing cows, switchbacks by the dozens, and the opportunity to stop in beautiful little mountain side villages for a bite to eat and an afternoon caffè corretto (espresso with a shot of grappa) these rides are well worth some of your time. Within half an hour to an hour drive, you can find yourself in the more tourist-filled towns of the Veneto region such as Verona, the many towns on the east side of Lake Garda, Padua, and of course, Venice.

Beautiful sky during a scenic drive in the Veneto region near Conegliano.

2. Venice – Close Enough, Yet Far Enough Away from Conegliano

Venice is magical and if you have not stayed over night, you must at least once… preferably during the off-season (November until right before Carnevale except for between Christmas and New Years). After one stay you can leave the over inflated prices to the masses. From that point on day-tripping is the way to go and Conegliano is the last stop of a direct train line into Venice which makes it a painless45-minute train ride and just a few bucks. Recently we took a train around 7:45 am, arrived in Venice by 8:30 am, visited the Gallerie dell’Accademia and Scuola San Rocco nearly by ourselves, and stopped for a cafe and dolce. We dropped by the Guggenheim, and by the time we were finished the crowds became crushing, and we were ready to head out. We grabbed a quick slice of pizza, and we were on our way back before most people even disembarked their cruise ship. The train is so quick and easy you could base yourself in Conegliano for a few days and drop in and out of Venice many times to see the sights without blowing your entire trip’s budget on accommodation and dining. We were back in Conegliano in the late afternoon to enjoy a delicious dinner of authentic food at realistic prices.

Venice at night is magical once, after that leave the overpriced accommodation and food to the masses.

1. Cuisine

Which brings me to my favorite part of Conegliano – the cuisine. Everywhere we select seems to be fantastic. Wander down the portico covered walkways and peek into any restaurant and your senses come to life. Most of the area spots pride themselves on the use of fresh, local ingredients. We have two particular favorites. Al Salisa is located at Via XX Settembre 2/4 and focuses on typical regional cuisine. To note is the house-made burrata with a firm mozzarella exterior and soft, supple, creamy center, and the tagliatelle alla selvaggina with wonderful homemade pasta and a ragu full of the flavors of all the game meats incorporated.

Our second favorite is Trattoria Citta’ Di Venezia, a lovely seafood restaurant and osteria located at Via XX Settembre 77/79. Fresh ingredients and beautiful presentation along with friendly staff make this a favorite stop for us. The mix vegetable side dish is outstanding in the summer with fresh herbs bringing the flavors to life and always a treat is the mini octopus starter.

Burrata at Al Salisa

Where Do We Stay?

Hotel Cannon d’Oro, a Best Western hotel located in the heart of the old city is our favorite spot to stay. Family owned and operated, all of the staff are just lovely and helpful. There is gated parking onsite with some spots under overhangs making them great for travelers by motorcycle. They are also a “cycle” hotel with amenities that gear specifically to travelers on bicycles such as a bicycle wash, maintenance area, safe bicycle lock space, and a hearty breakfast with meats, cheeses, hard-boiled eggs, pastries, fruits, and cereals. The rooms and beds are super comfortable and clean.

Truffle Hunting Istria with the Karlic Family

November 16, 2015 By Jessica McAvoy 1 Comment

Truffle in English, tartufo in Italian, truffe in French, tartuf in Croatian, gastronomic heaven in Foodie.

One of the first things I tend to eat when I arrive in Italy is something with truffles. Although we can purchase almost anything in NY, truffles are one food that are widely un-affordable to even consider in our foodie loving kitchen. I don’t care how much you love to eat, the prices are ridiculous. White truffles are so high in value, they are priced by the gram. How expensive is too expensive for my kitchen? A quick search on eataly.com shows around $168 for 4 oz of black truffles to around $965 for 4 oz of white and at that price range they are out of the question in my kitchen. Not the case in Umbria though where a mere 9 euros gets you a nice walnut sized tuber. A mere 9 euros. We were eating them almost as much as gelato. Well, ok, not quite, but you get the point.

Not being able to get our hands on truffles at home is ok as some foods are more memorable when ingested in the right surroundings listening to the dancing of a foreign language in your ear. If you have never had the pleasure of experiencing a real truffle (and I do not speak of truffle oil – most do not even contain truffles but a chemical) know this – it smells pretty much like the bottom of a laundry basket that had sweaty gym clothes festering for a few days (or even weeks – I have not had white truffles yet but have been told the smell is far more intense than black). How did I come to love the distinctive taste? On first bite it is earthy or what you would imagine eating the forest floor would taste like, but as your saliva mingles with oils of the tuber so many layers of flavorful nuances appear. Hints of syrup, flowers, nuts and honey, and time, and place, and memory…

We had wanted to go on a truffle hunt. We love seeing how and where our food comes from. We were interested in how this tuber became gastronomic gold and why in all of the large, vast, United States truffles (at least not outstanding ones) are not harvested. While we were in Italy we simply ran out of time.

Discover black truffles during truffle hunting Istria.

A black truffle discovered by the Karlić family’s newest pup.

Istria is home to some of the finest fungus in the world.

When we arrived in Istria, Croatia I spotted tartuf on the menu and quickly learned Istria is home to some of the finest fungus found in the world. Istria is a heart shaped peninsula in northwest region of Croatia, and within it lies the Motovun Forest, a perfect environment for the elusive white truffle, as well as 3 varieties of black truffle. White truffles are harvested from September until January, black truffles year round. One of our new Croatian friends told us about the Karlić family and set us up to go on a truffle hunt with them. Three generations and over fifty years of experience, this is the family for truffle hunting Istria with!

Truffles are tubers that grow completely underground in close relationship to the roots of oak, hazel, poplar, and beech trees. The human senses have no way of discovering it; for that you need a specially trained dog. The scent of the truffle develops after the spores are matured and this indicates when the taste has developed. Harvest too soon and the tuber will be tasteless. Well trained dogs (and pigs in some locations) can sniff out these tubers when they ready.

We were greeted by Kristina and she led us through the history of the family and told us about truffles and the environment needed for them to grow. We enjoyed a beautiful spread of local cheeses, meats, salsas, honeys, and all sorts of delicious truffle infused foods. Kristina showed us a platter full of shaved truffles. All of these would comprise the scrambled eggs that the two of us would be served. ALL OF THESE SHAVED TRUFFLES!!

Then the moment of wow as she brought to the table a platter of eggs with more truffle than I will ever see again in my lifetime.

Truffle hunting Istria tantalizes all the senses.

Truffles gently folded inside and mounded on top. It was hot out, I was full, and yet could not stop eating them. Then, with our stomachs bursting it was time to hunt.

Scrambled eggs heaping with fresh truffle at Karlić Tartufi.

The excitement from the dogs is contagious. Ivan opened the back of the car the dogs all started jumping for joy in their pens. For this hunt, Ivan selected two beautiful off white dogs, and a young pup of under a year old that he had been training. They rushed to the car and nearly knocked each other over to get in. We drove a few minutes down the road to the family’s private forest.

There was no need to coax the dogs to get to work. They had a task to do and as soon as the door opened they were off. We we rushed with adrenaline and did not want to miss any of the action. It was a 107 degrees out in the thick humid forest, and I can assure you we did our best to keep up but they were like lightning. Within five minutes the new pup bolted to a tree and began ferociously digging and found a nice small black truffle. Then the competition began and the two older ladies really kicked it into gear quickly finding another. Following the second find the dogs, and us, were hot and exhausted so we headed back to the house. We chatted with Ivan and Kristina about how they train the dogs.

Karlić Tartufi dogs entering the thick forest truffle hunting Istria.

Karlić Tartufi dogs entering the thick forest to hunt for truffles.

We ate a lot of truffles that day. More than I ever imagined I would have in a lifetime. Since we were traveling by motorcycle we had very limited space but managed to fit one small jar of truffle salt in the side case that I use often. As we finished up our experience that day we met a lovely family from Canada about to begin theirs. We found ourselves lost in conversation with them, and the Karlić Family, and enjoyed spending the summer afternoon in such wonderful company. Each time I sprinkle my salt I remember back to the beautiful experience and warm conversations we had on a hot July day outside Buzet. I have been truffle spoiled, and boy, my taste-buds, and memory, have thanked me.

Karlić Tartufi is located at Paladini 14 near Buzet. The family hunts daily and also has a beautiful truffle and local products shop on their property. Call them at +385 52 667 304, email tartuf@vip.hr, or visit http://karlictartufi.hr/en/ for more information.

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