Normandy Bed and Breakfast Rosebud in Honfleur

April 23, 2016 By Jessica McAvoy 1 Comment

A variety of bed and breakfasts, inns, small hotels and guest homes abound in Normandy. Just like anywhere else, some will be what you imagine and some not so much. Honfleur is a charming home base for Normandy exploration and home to our favorite bed and breakfast in the region, the Chambres d’hôtes Rosebud. A short stroll from Le Vieux Bassin and the heart of the city yet on the outskirts making getting back on the road a cinch.

A home redesigned, one slow room at a time makes this our favorite Normandy bed and breakfast.

Madame Barberi-Le Cesne Françoise raised her children in this home while she worked full time. As her children grew up and moved on, she painstakingly renovated one room at a time creating this Normandy bed and breakfast as it is today. When the first room and then second became available, she balanced working part-time with running the B&B. With all the rooms complete, she now runs Rosebud full time.

The gardens are elegant. A massive stone wall and metal gate hide the home and driveway. You don’t know what to expect as Madame opens it. And it is magical! Wisteria, lavender and herbs, clematis, peonies, lilies, manicured shrubs, and fruit trees greet you. The garden feast continues with the addition of varieties of palm trees, hidden corners with sling back chairs for relaxing in, and paths for wandering. When we arrived, the garden was busting with Iris’, tulips and daffodils. Year-round beautiful weather in the garden invites you to enjoy breakfast surrounded by blooms.

French garden glamour shot

Each room’s design is indeed a labor of love.

They reflect Madame Barberi-Le Cesne Françoise’s love of art and beautiful things–she is an artist herself. For the design-savvy traveler, this French bed and breakfast’s decor is no disappointment! Each room is treated as importantly as the master bedroom of the home. Layered pieces of fine art adorn fireplaces and nooks; sculptures sitting atop the dresser have an aesthetic purpose and guide the eye to somewhere else in the room. Art books with pages marked indicating pieces located in the region’s museums and castles are stacked upon the room’s writing desk and side tables. Layers and textures in the rooms’ decor bring the senses to life. You climb into soft luxurious bedding topped with a faux fur throw blanket at the end of a hard day of viewing art, strolling, and dining.

Comfortable bed in Normandy Bed and Breakfast Rosebud, Honfleur, Frace

Faux fur and soft sheets call to you after a day of viewing art, dining, and strolling

French breakfast at Rosebud is heavenly.

Breakfast is delightful. Fresh juice, pastries, croissants, jams, yogurt, and fruit delivered as you sit down. Madame will ask you your tea or cafe preference, and if you would like meats or cheese, and wait for it… if you would like, and more importantly, how you would like, your eggs cooked! In France! At a Normandy bed and breakfast! Not for me, but for each his own.

There is a small covered garage for parking diagonally across the street. We parked our motorcycle right in the garden behind the home. Madame Barberi-Le Cesne Françoise is charming, and a stay at Bed and Breakfast Rosebud is how a stay in France should be–a feast for the senses.

Our BMW GS Moto parked in the Bed and Breakfast Rosebud’s back garden

Stay here for a few nights and linger. Full disclaimer – I have no affiliation with this b&b and receive no compensation for recommending you stay here. I just love the Bed, and Breakfast Rosebud want to share it with you.

Honfleur, France – A Charming Normandy Base

April 22, 2016 By Jessica McAvoy 1 Comment

With slate and timber architecture and picturesque harbor reflections, Honfleur, France has always been a magnet for artists. Claude Monet, Gustav Courbet, and Eugène Boudin developed impressionism with Le Vieux Bassin (the old basin) as inspiration. A Parisian friend suggested Honfleur, France as a nice Normandy base and she was so right! This city is located across the river Seine from le Havre, and just a scenic drive away from the beaches of Normandy and the Cavaldos cider (cidre in French) region. After a few glasses of cidre we wandered around and watched the plein air painters in action.

Reflection of Normandy base for exploration, Honfleur's architecture in the harbor water.

Honfeur’s Le Vieux Bassin, or the Old Basin is home to sailboats, cafes, Normandy architecture, and a carousel

Honfleur Exploration and Beyond from this Normandy Base

Honfleur has plenty to see, eat, drink, and enjoy. The city is home to a few small museums including Musée Eugène Boudin which features the works of impressionist artists, and Musée de la Marine telling the story of Honfleur’s maritime history. France’s largest wooden church, Saint Catherine’s, also calls Honfleur home.

Le Vieux Bassin (the old basin or harbor) is the heart of the city. Once a merchant and fishing port, the harbor is now home to yachts and sailboats. Restaurants that tempt the taste-buds line the sidewalks and show off buckets of mussels and fresh fish. Don’t arrive ravishingly hungry–you do not want to stop at the first place you pass by. The view is worth so much that not all restaurants here are up to par. That being said, the ones that certainly deserve your taste buds’ attention. We had a fantastic dish featuring skate (ray in French). I have seen Jacques Pépin prepare it on his cooking show and watched my husband toss many a skate back into the Atlantic Ocean when fishing on Long Island, NY. This fish smothered in white wine, butter, and caper sauce is nothing short of outstanding!

A look at an old building in Honfleur, France, Normandy base for exploration.

Slate, stucco, timber, and brick Normandy architecture throughout the city of Honfleur

Bed and Breakfast Rosebud

Honfleur is home to a host of bed and breakfasts, inns, small hotels, and guest homes. Our favorite stay is at the Chambres d’hôtes Rosebud. A short stroll from Le Vieux Bassin and the attractions of the city yet on the outskirts enough to make getting back on the road a cinch.

Le Havre

Just across the river by bus or taxi is France’s second busiest port, Le Havre. Musee d’art moderne Andre Malraux (MuMa) is the shining star of this city for any impressionist buff. The museum was initially built in 1845 and was utterly destroyed in the bombings of World War II. Re-built in 1951, and then restructured between 1995-1999, the museum is now a clean, contemporary building allowing the country’s most extensive impressionism collection of art to speak for itself.

Cider Trail

The Calvados region of Normandy is home to some of the world’s best cider. The Normandy tourism board has worked with the orchids to create wonderful itineraries of visiting and tasting along this 25-mile route through Pays d’Auge. Many of the mills require appointments so stop by a tourist info building to get things off to the right start.

Hens at Cider Orchid in Calvados, France, easy to reach from Normandy base Honfleur.

Hens clucking around outside of a cider mill in Cavaldos

D-Day Landing Beaches of Normandy

There are five main D-Day Landing Beaches: Sword Beach, Juno Beach, Gold Beach, Omaha Beach, Utah Beach. The beaches and towns along the coast are dotted with cemeteries, museums, and memorials. They are all moving, and it can be an emotionally draining day. If you are visiting the region to pay homage to a loved one or looking to view something specific start with the particular site you came to see so that you are not too exhausted. I also recommend hiring a tour–private or group–if you are looking to gain something specific out of your experience as it can be overwhelming. If you are visiting to pay your respects and learn more about this historical place and time you should be fine on your own. Either way, visit a tourist info point first to gain your bearings.

D-day landing beach in easy to reach from Normandy base of Honfleur.

Flags wave proudly in the breeze on one of Normandy’s D-Day landing beaches

3 Tips for Monet’s Gardens in Giverny, France

April 16, 2016 By Jessica McAvoy Leave a Comment

Violas stand proud like little soldiers guarding tulips in every color of the rainbow. There is no doubt that Giverny, France is beautiful, and each variety of plant that greets you has a distinct personality. Plenty of time can be spent daydreaming while looking across the pond at Monet’s water lilies and seeing the famous Japanese bridge. But, unfortunately, time is often limited on vacation. You want to make the most out of every day. Had we planned a little better, we would not have spent an extra half of a day figuring things out. Just three simple tips for visiting Monet’s gardens would have made all the difference on our visit.

Japanese Bridge, Monet Garden Giverny France

A look across the water lily pond to the Japanese bridge in Monet’s Garden, Giverny, France

We left Honfleur in the late morning with the intent to stop in Giverny en route to Paris. This stop was the start of our trip, so we still had three seasons of clothes and too much junk on our moto. Every stop felt a little like a hassle. We were paranoid about leaving our things unattended. All of our gear was still shiny and new and screaming “come on, you know you want this fabulous silver tron-like jacket!” Nothing like the end of the journey when we doubled back through France—the same jacket was so dirty and crusty the flies were hovering above. No joke.

Having been to Paris before I knew (at least I thought I knew) what I wanted to see again. Unfortunately, I ignored planning anything before or after Paris. I kept telling myself I would research when we were in Ireland the month before. Instead, I spent my Irish time doing Irish things. This set us up for a string of disappointing days which we did not accomplish or see much of anything. Follow these three tips and avoid the same disappointment.

Giverny tulips in bloom.

Tip #1: Arrive in Giverny First Thing in the Morning

We arrived around noon, and there were more people online than tulips in the gardens. Giverny is best enjoyed within an hour or two of opening. I am not exaggerating. The mass volume of people that arrive within each hour after opening is mind-blowing. The crowds make it difficult to enjoy the serenity of the gardens, let alone make your way through Monet’s home. The site opens at 9:30 am so best to arrive between 9-9:15ish. I know, I know, you are still waiting then, but it is much more pleasant to pause and enter a space that’s empty than a crowded space. Trust me on this.

Monet’s house

Yellow dining room in Monet's Giverny Home.

Monet’s dining room.

Blue and white Rouen tiles adorn the backsplash in Monet's Kitchen.

Kitchen cooktop with blue and white Rouen tiles

Tip #2: Pre-Purchase Your Tickets Online

We quickly learned even if we did get online, there was no guarantee that we would get in as there were so many people ahead of us. Pre-purchased ticket holders use a separate line. The website says no-queuing, but there is a small one. The key here is minor, as in 10 to 20 minutes, unlike hours of waiting. You also have the option to purchase a combo ticket for Monet’s Gardens and the Musée des Impressionnismes in the village. The house and gardens are run by the non-profit organization Foundation Claude Monet. Visit their website, fondation-monet.com/en, to purchase your tickets online.

A look across the tulips in Monet’s garden to his house

Gardens at Giverny

Tip #3: Allow Enough Time to Wander and Enjoy

As I said, we stopped en route to Paris. This means we wanted to be in Paris before rush hour. We had very little time to see anything, let alone enjoy ourselves. Once in the gardens, why would you want to rush?! Take your time and enjoy the beauty and nuances of color and texture surrounding you. Embrace the moment, approach the bridge, wander. Every plant was placed purposely. These carefully designed elements are what influenced Monet’s impressionist paintings. Give these moments the attention they deserve. The village is also home to the Musée des Impressionnismes I mention above, and many shops, artist studios, galleries, and cafés. Give yourself enough time to enjoy the gardens and surrounding village.

So what did we do? We parked the moto, went to the Restaurant Les Nymphéas, had a fantastic quiche lorraine for lunch with a glass of Chablis, and people watched for an hour. We accepted that if we wanted to enjoy Giverny, we would need to sacrifice one of our days in Paris and come back. So, we precisely did just that. We were relaxed and in the right frame of mind to enjoy the tranquility (albeit imagined as so many people really do visit!) that inspired so many magnificent Monet paintings. How long should you allow? At least a half-day, a full day for relaxed daydreaming.

Taking our time wandering thru the tulips in Monet’s Garden, Giverny.

6 Reasons to Visit Conegliano on Your Next Italian Vacation

November 18, 2015 By Jessica McAvoy Leave a Comment

Travelers to Italy’s Veneto region often pass through on a mission to Venice, missing out on the beauty and splendor of the area. This makes Conegliano all the more worth a stop. It is unspoiled and quiet with very few tourists. With a compact historic center, a pedestrian-friendly sprawl surrounding, and a convenient train station, Conegliano is an excellent place to plant yourself and take a few days trips, or just absorb Italian life. There are many reasons that this gem is one of my favorite cities in Italy.

Here are my top six reasons to visit Conegliano on your next Italian Vacation.

6. Conegliano Art

A town in the grips of the powerhouse Venice in its prime, Conegliano has a rich history which means lots of investments in the arts and culture. It is the birthplace of painter Giovanni Battista, known as Cima da Conegliano. Renaissance painter of many religious stories, one masterpiece remains in town, Madonna with Child Enthroned with Saints (La Madonna in Trono e Santi), located in the 15th century Duomo di Santa Maria Annunziata e San Leonardo. To the left of the Duomo is the Scuola dei Battuti, home to the Sala dei Battuti and an engulfing space covered in frescoes. The hours to visit are finicky, and usually only open on Sundays, however outside the door is a phone number you can call to make a reservation.

Frescoes have defied time and mother nature here. You can still see portions on the exteriors of many of the buildings throughout the historic center. That’s right, on the exteriors! Up the hill and overlooking the town is a tower which is all that remains of the castle. Now home to a small Civic Museum, it contains a few gem paintings, fresco fragments, and some archaeological finds. The view of the region from up top is outstanding so take the fifteen-minute walk up and stop in the bar at the top for a glass of Prosecco. If the Prosecco doesn’t already reward you, the 360-degree view at the top of the tower will.

Fresco on the exterior facade of Conegliano’s Duomo di Santa Maria Annunziata e San Leonardo

5. Veneto Wine Region – Strada del Prosecco and Colli Conegliano Valdobbiadene

The Veneto, my friends, is the land of Prosecco, a beautiful DOCG (highest quality classification) wine which comes in three varieties – tranquillo or still, frizzante or slightly sparkling, and spumante or full of sparkle. Conegliano is home to Italy’s most prestigious school of wine, and a viticultural institute where many grape varieties have been bred and a number of native varieties have been saved. It is also from here that you can start the meandering Strada del Prosecco and Colli Conegliano Valdobbiadene. These two intoxicating (only for the passenger) drives take you right through the heart of the Prosecco growing vineyards. As with most regions in Italy, in general, wineries take guests by appointment so make sure and grab a map from your hotel and ask them to assist you in planning the day. If you find yourself without reservations anywhere don’t fret, the drive is beautiful, and in every cafe and restaurant, you are sure to be offered a lovely glass of the local pour.

View of the Veneto region from the top of the tower.

4. Conegliano for Festivals and Events

Throughout the year the people of Conegliano are always finding joy in life and a reason to celebrate. Of course, due to the Prosecco, almost monthly you can find an event in the region celebrating this beautiful wine. All the wine festivities culminate the last week of September with the “Autumn Coneglianese” or a grape festival featuring hundreds of wines and the region’s most distinguished vineyards present for tasting. Each June you can bare witness to the “Living Draughts Game,” or a live chess game with people playing the part of the pieces. During the festival, a Renaissance atmosphere is throughout town. There are also tons of small events happening almost weekly such as a Jazz fest throughout the winter, and music, performance, craft, and food festivals throughout the spring, summer, and fall. Whichever season you find yourself in the neighborhood there is sure to be a reason to celebrate life with the locals.

Lion fresco on the Belvedere Dal Vera entry into the historic center of Conegliano.

3. Amazing Drives and Day-trips Near Conegliano

As I mentioned above, Conegliano is the starting point for the Strada del Prosecco and Colli Conegliano Valdobbiadene taking you on a lovely drive through some of the world’s most beautiful wine country. Located at the foothills of the great Dolomite Mountains, when you head out from Conegliano you can quickly find yourself on scenic drives that would put anyone in awe. Full of grand vistas, grazing cows, switchbacks by the dozens, and the opportunity to stop in beautiful little mountain side villages for a bite to eat and an afternoon caffè corretto (espresso with a shot of grappa) these rides are well worth some of your time. Within half an hour to an hour drive, you can find yourself in the more tourist-filled towns of the Veneto region such as Verona, the many towns on the east side of Lake Garda, Padua, and of course, Venice.

Beautiful sky during a scenic drive in the Veneto region near Conegliano.

2. Venice – Close Enough, Yet Far Enough Away from Conegliano

Venice is magical and if you have not stayed over night, you must at least once… preferably during the off-season (November until right before Carnevale except for between Christmas and New Years). After one stay you can leave the over inflated prices to the masses. From that point on day-tripping is the way to go and Conegliano is the last stop of a direct train line into Venice which makes it a painless45-minute train ride and just a few bucks. Recently we took a train around 7:45 am, arrived in Venice by 8:30 am, visited the Gallerie dell’Accademia and Scuola San Rocco nearly by ourselves, and stopped for a cafe and dolce. We dropped by the Guggenheim, and by the time we were finished the crowds became crushing, and we were ready to head out. We grabbed a quick slice of pizza, and we were on our way back before most people even disembarked their cruise ship. The train is so quick and easy you could base yourself in Conegliano for a few days and drop in and out of Venice many times to see the sights without blowing your entire trip’s budget on accommodation and dining. We were back in Conegliano in the late afternoon to enjoy a delicious dinner of authentic food at realistic prices.

Venice at night is magical once, after that leave the overpriced accommodation and food to the masses.

1. Cuisine

Which brings me to my favorite part of Conegliano – the cuisine. Everywhere we select seems to be fantastic. Wander down the portico covered walkways and peek into any restaurant and your senses come to life. Most of the area spots pride themselves on the use of fresh, local ingredients. We have two particular favorites. Al Salisa is located at Via XX Settembre 2/4 and focuses on typical regional cuisine. To note is the house-made burrata with a firm mozzarella exterior and soft, supple, creamy center, and the tagliatelle alla selvaggina with wonderful homemade pasta and a ragu full of the flavors of all the game meats incorporated.

Our second favorite is Trattoria Citta’ Di Venezia, a lovely seafood restaurant and osteria located at Via XX Settembre 77/79. Fresh ingredients and beautiful presentation along with friendly staff make this a favorite stop for us. The mix vegetable side dish is outstanding in the summer with fresh herbs bringing the flavors to life and always a treat is the mini octopus starter.

Burrata at Al Salisa

Where Do We Stay?

Hotel Cannon d’Oro, a Best Western hotel located in the heart of the old city is our favorite spot to stay. Family owned and operated, all of the staff are just lovely and helpful. There is gated parking onsite with some spots under overhangs making them great for travelers by motorcycle. They are also a “cycle” hotel with amenities that gear specifically to travelers on bicycles such as a bicycle wash, maintenance area, safe bicycle lock space, and a hearty breakfast with meats, cheeses, hard-boiled eggs, pastries, fruits, and cereals. The rooms and beds are super comfortable and clean.

Truffle Hunting Istria with the Karlic Family

November 16, 2015 By Jessica McAvoy 1 Comment

Truffle in English, tartufo in Italian, truffe in French, tartuf in Croatian, gastronomic heaven in Foodie.

One of the first things I tend to eat when I arrive in Italy is something with truffles. Although we can purchase almost anything in NY, truffles are one food that are widely un-affordable to even consider in our foodie loving kitchen. I don’t care how much you love to eat, the prices are ridiculous. White truffles are so high in value, they are priced by the gram. How expensive is too expensive for my kitchen? A quick search on eataly.com shows around $168 for 4 oz of black truffles to around $965 for 4 oz of white and at that price range they are out of the question in my kitchen. Not the case in Umbria though where a mere 9 euros gets you a nice walnut sized tuber. A mere 9 euros. We were eating them almost as much as gelato. Well, ok, not quite, but you get the point.

Not being able to get our hands on truffles at home is ok as some foods are more memorable when ingested in the right surroundings listening to the dancing of a foreign language in your ear. If you have never had the pleasure of experiencing a real truffle (and I do not speak of truffle oil – most do not even contain truffles but a chemical) know this – it smells pretty much like the bottom of a laundry basket that had sweaty gym clothes festering for a few days (or even weeks – I have not had white truffles yet but have been told the smell is far more intense than black). How did I come to love the distinctive taste? On first bite it is earthy or what you would imagine eating the forest floor would taste like, but as your saliva mingles with oils of the tuber so many layers of flavorful nuances appear. Hints of syrup, flowers, nuts and honey, and time, and place, and memory…

We had wanted to go on a truffle hunt. We love seeing how and where our food comes from. We were interested in how this tuber became gastronomic gold and why in all of the large, vast, United States truffles (at least not outstanding ones) are not harvested. While we were in Italy we simply ran out of time.

Discover black truffles during truffle hunting Istria.

A black truffle discovered by the Karlić family’s newest pup.

Istria is home to some of the finest fungus in the world.

When we arrived in Istria, Croatia I spotted tartuf on the menu and quickly learned Istria is home to some of the finest fungus found in the world. Istria is a heart shaped peninsula in northwest region of Croatia, and within it lies the Motovun Forest, a perfect environment for the elusive white truffle, as well as 3 varieties of black truffle. White truffles are harvested from September until January, black truffles year round. One of our new Croatian friends told us about the Karlić family and set us up to go on a truffle hunt with them. Three generations and over fifty years of experience, this is the family for truffle hunting Istria with!

Truffles are tubers that grow completely underground in close relationship to the roots of oak, hazel, poplar, and beech trees. The human senses have no way of discovering it; for that you need a specially trained dog. The scent of the truffle develops after the spores are matured and this indicates when the taste has developed. Harvest too soon and the tuber will be tasteless. Well trained dogs (and pigs in some locations) can sniff out these tubers when they ready.

We were greeted by Kristina and she led us through the history of the family and told us about truffles and the environment needed for them to grow. We enjoyed a beautiful spread of local cheeses, meats, salsas, honeys, and all sorts of delicious truffle infused foods. Kristina showed us a platter full of shaved truffles. All of these would comprise the scrambled eggs that the two of us would be served. ALL OF THESE SHAVED TRUFFLES!!

Then the moment of wow as she brought to the table a platter of eggs with more truffle than I will ever see again in my lifetime.

Truffle hunting Istria tantalizes all the senses.

Truffles gently folded inside and mounded on top. It was hot out, I was full, and yet could not stop eating them. Then, with our stomachs bursting it was time to hunt.

Scrambled eggs heaping with fresh truffle at Karlić Tartufi.

The excitement from the dogs is contagious. Ivan opened the back of the car the dogs all started jumping for joy in their pens. For this hunt, Ivan selected two beautiful off white dogs, and a young pup of under a year old that he had been training. They rushed to the car and nearly knocked each other over to get in. We drove a few minutes down the road to the family’s private forest.

There was no need to coax the dogs to get to work. They had a task to do and as soon as the door opened they were off. We we rushed with adrenaline and did not want to miss any of the action. It was a 107 degrees out in the thick humid forest, and I can assure you we did our best to keep up but they were like lightning. Within five minutes the new pup bolted to a tree and began ferociously digging and found a nice small black truffle. Then the competition began and the two older ladies really kicked it into gear quickly finding another. Following the second find the dogs, and us, were hot and exhausted so we headed back to the house. We chatted with Ivan and Kristina about how they train the dogs.

Karlić Tartufi dogs entering the thick forest truffle hunting Istria.

Karlić Tartufi dogs entering the thick forest to hunt for truffles.

We ate a lot of truffles that day. More than I ever imagined I would have in a lifetime. Since we were traveling by motorcycle we had very limited space but managed to fit one small jar of truffle salt in the side case that I use often. As we finished up our experience that day we met a lovely family from Canada about to begin theirs. We found ourselves lost in conversation with them, and the Karlić Family, and enjoyed spending the summer afternoon in such wonderful company. Each time I sprinkle my salt I remember back to the beautiful experience and warm conversations we had on a hot July day outside Buzet. I have been truffle spoiled, and boy, my taste-buds, and memory, have thanked me.

Karlić Tartufi is located at Paladini 14 near Buzet. The family hunts daily and also has a beautiful truffle and local products shop on their property. Call them at +385 52 667 304, email tartuf@vip.hr, or visit http://karlictartufi.hr/en/ for more information.

Frescoes in Croatia: Learning the Art of Fresco

July 21, 2015 By Jessica McAvoy Leave a Comment

Frescoes are created by applying pigment to a damp wall surface of plaster (usually made by limestone or marble dust and water). They have been used during the centuries for purely decorative to the illustration of political or religious doctrine. The frescoes we viewed in Istria were created during Medieval times in small Gothic churches as a means to explain the stories of Christianity to illiterate parishioners.

When we checked into our accommodation in Bertoši located near the center of Istria in Croatia, our host asked us about our interests. To see as many frescoes as possible was my reply, of course. She made that happen, and she also connected me with local fresco artist and art professor Hari Vidović.

We arrived in Roč (Rozzo) on a sweltering afternoon and were instructed to meet Hari at the entrance gate. When we got to the town it was quiet and all shutters were drawn closed to keep out the heat. The air was stifling. We waited a minute or two and then around the corner came a gentleman in a puffy green Medieval top, tights, and painter’s cap. It was truly awesome to see him walk over dressed in full ethnic garb. Looking around our moto was the only thing in sight not ancient.

Hari was warm and open (which has been the case of every Croatian person we have met with no exception) and seemed as excited to meet us as we were to meet him. He took us to his studio telling us a bit about the history of Roč along the way. The town contains three churches from the 12th, 14th, and 15th centuries and is surrounded by Medieval walls, a Roman lapidarium, and has a cannon from the years it was apart of the Venetian empire. Hari told us a fantastic legend of a granny that saved the town from a Turkish invasion by filling the cannon with ash and setting it off making the invaders below believe there was an entire army firing down on them.

When we arrived in the studio, we began with a shot of local honey grappa, and an introduction to the materials. On the work table, there were a few tablets illustrating the different stages of surface preparation, as well as jars of pigments and brushes. It had been months since I painted and I was so anxious to get started! But, like everything, first comes preparation.

Hari walked us through the different stages and showed us our surfaces we would be painting on – ceiling terracotta tiles that were a few hundred years old. We applied a layer of gritty plaster made with river sand and water and set out to see the local church where we were given a tour of the frescoes while time worked its magic.

Hari applying a layer of plaster to the surface

When we returned, we applied another layer plaster, this time much silkier and with marble dust added. We had a few minutes while it settled and so we riffled through some images to find what would be our muse and created a template on tracing paper. We began mixing our paints and then placed our templates on top of the surface. Using a toothpick, traced the template into the plaster.

Plaster with limestone and marble dust

Working on the plaster surface was very much like working with watercolor. You start with the lightest colors and work up to the deeper and darker ones with layers. Some translucent, some opaque. After time you begin to feel the moisture dissipating from the surface. At this point, it is time to stop. If you are to go any further you must add a binder to the pigment as it will not absorb.

Pigments

We enjoyed our time with Hari in his studio creating our works of art to take home. Having a hands-on understanding of fresco creation was enlightening. Apart from the painting, we also really enjoyed chatting with Hari. He speaks excellent English as well as Italian, and we had plenty in common with him besides art!

The workshop lasted around 3 hrs or so and cost about 600 or so kuna each (about $90) and was well worth it for the experience. Daryl as a non-artist had a great time, but 3 hours of prep and painting was his limit. I could of stayed an entire day working on my fresco. If you are unhappy with your artistic creation but want a fresco to take home, Hari also has some of his own beautiful frescoes available for purchase in the studio. If you are in the area and are interested in learning more about fresco workshops with Hari email him: hari.vidovic@gmail.com.

Fresco completed during the 3-hour workshop

Key Keepers – Protecting Istria’s Frescoes

July 20, 2015 By Jessica McAvoy Leave a Comment

While we were visiting the Chapel of Our Lady on the Rocks (Crkvica svete Marije na škriljinah, S. Maria delle Lastre) located in Beram, Istria, a group of people wandered up to the church and tried to convince the woman that since they were a group, they should pay less. The entry fee is 20kuna ($2.85) per person. I found this incredibly disrespectful. Spaces such as these are essential pieces of culture and history to the respective country. They too need funding to maintain them. The roof needs to be maintained as well as the grounds kept clean.

The door is open for those willing to work to get inside.

The first few days we were in Istria I found it incredibly frustrating that everywhere I read discussed the amazing frescoes and churches and that they should not be missed, and yet they felt so inaccessible. The tourism board has a map geared towards “culture” that has about 20 sites with frescoes listed, and the first handful we sought out, if we found the church, we could not locate the key keeper or get inside.

During our fresco workshop with local artist Hari Vidović we were discussing the difficulty in finding them. Me, always a solution finder, started rattling ideas off such as a card you purchase at the tourist office for 3 or 7-day access that has the addresses of the key keepers and detailed location maps etc. Daryl suggested each of the churches having a lockbox with the key that a few different people in a town would have the code. Even the tourism board having ‘certified’ guides with keys would be a great solution as it also proved very difficult for me to find a private guide. Options are as limitless as the sky.

My feelings changed after visiting Beram and seeing this group try to haggle the price. The key keeper explained to me that her family has lived in Beram for centuries. She feels it her duty to protect these frescoes. They are the heritage of her family and their neighbors. She also feels it is important to share them with people that desire to see them enough to seek her out. She doesn’t want anyone just wandering in and leaning on the walls. She doesn’t want unattended people thinking they are pulling a fast one and taking a few quick no-one will know photos with flash.

I agree. These spaces are delicate. These spaces need to remain difficult to access. They should not be a checklist item of the casual traveler, guidebook in hand, just wanting to see them because someone said they should. I told her to keep them difficult for people to see. Keep them protected.

Instead, they need to be viewed by guests of Istria that want to know about them. Guests of Istria that want to talk to local people and want to learn about the frescoes from the very people that have been entrusted with guarding them for centuries.

People with a real passion for seeing them will find her, and the frescoes.

Frescoes in Croatia: Dance of the Dead, Beram

July 20, 2015 By Jessica McAvoy Leave a Comment

As is the case with most frescoes in Croatia, the Chapel of Our Lady on the Rocks (Crkvica svete Marije na škriljinah, S. Maria delle Lastre) is not easy to visit. You must locate the key keeper to gain access. Sometimes, as in Draguć, the key keeper hands you the key and off you go. Other times, as in Beram (Vermo), you must locate the woman with the key, then she will hop in the car with you and direct you to the church.

The entrance is 20Kuna (about $2.85) per person. Some guidebooks say this is for the time spent by the woman to take you- she told me that this is not the case and all the money goes towards the upkeep of the church. The key keeper does not speak English, but does speak some Italian in addition to Croatian. Our Istrian friend Marijana offered to bring us since I didn’t think the woman would want to hop on the moto…

We went late in the day, around 6:30 PM. The small Gothic church is surrounded by pine trees and there is no electricity. The time of day proved to be a little too late to really view the Dance of the Dead fresco which is located on the west wall of the church, however even in the darkness, the red still vibrated. The rest of the church had enough light coming in to see fairly well. Photographing the walls was not quite successful (I will not use a flash to photograph art as it damages the pigment) and I apologize for the poor quality of the photos. There are two windows on either side of the main door, and there is a second door on the south wall, as well as two windows in the nave allowing light to enter.

The key keeper narrated all the frescoes for us and Marijana translated. We felt very fortunate to be able to communicate with her as we found the story of the church and its frescoes fascinating. She explained to us that during the 18th century the original church had been expanded, the Gothic vault ceiling had been covered by the Baroque tabulas that are seen in there now, two windows were added on either side of the door damaging the frescoes of Adam and Eve, and the Wheel of Fortune, and that also during this time, the frescoes were covered up with mortar and not rediscovered until early in the 20th century.

Detail of the Baroque ceiling

As described by guidebooks and websites the Dance of the Dead frescoes are beautiful. They were created to remind the faithful that everyone is equal in their dance with death; the pauper and the elite alike – all dance together when the time comes. They were vibrant enough for us to see much of the color and detail in the dark space. There was, however, plenty of light enabling us to view the rest of the frescoes. On the north wall is a rendition of the Adoration of the Kings running almost the entire length of the church. Through incredible detail, Kastav and his assistants pay homage to Istrian landscape and seascape by illustrating native flora and fauna, and the culture of the people painted in the traditional clothing of his time.

The south wall tells the story of the life of Mary in addition to other stories from the New Testament. For me, the most beautiful of the frescoes is a rendition of Veronica’s Veil in the underside of the arch over the entrance door. I was amazed at what great condition it is in.

I found the following website which I recommend checking out if you want to see more photos and descriptions of the frescoes, as well as history of the church itself. It also contains photos of the Dance of the Dead fresco which I was unable to photograph due to the lack of light. http://www.istrianet.org/istria/architecture/churches/beram/murals-descriptions.htm

Veronica’s Veil

Frescoes in Istria Croatia: St. Rok of Draguć

July 19, 2015 By Jessica McAvoy Leave a Comment

Istria is littered with outstanding frescoes. The trick is to be persistent enough to find the key. Draguć (or Draguccio in Italian) is a tiny town near the center of Istria, Croatia. There are two small Medieval churches containing frescoes in opposite directions on the outskirts of what remains of the fortified city. When you enter with your car there is a graveyard and small church, St. Elisia (XIII c.), on your right side. You then come to an open area to park and a map of the village and its sights. Unfortunately, a few weeks prior to our visit the roof of St. Elisia fell in so we were unable to view the inside. Hopefully the damage was not to severe to the frescoes.

Finding the key to gain access to frescoes in Istria Croatia can be a challenge.

We were very fortunate to be wandering around with our new Croatian friend, Marijana, and her Bernese Mountain Dog, Misha. Marijana had wanted to take me to the newly opened House of Frescoes (which had an opening that she had read about, but when we arrived learned it is not actually opened to the public yet). She quickly started asking people she saw how to obtain the key to the church on the opposite side of town, St. Rok (aka St. Rocco, or St. Roch). We found out the key was being held at house #40 (always ask around as key responsibility shifts). She exchanged pleasantries, obtained a Medieval iron key the size of my face, and off we went!

Approaching the exterior of the church is nothing short of a fairy tale – the church is perched atop the hill with views of the valley all around. We arrived later in the day so the sun and daylight were low on the horizon. Putting the key in the door, adrenaline was rushing through my body and I could not get the key to catch! I had no idea what to expect. When the door finally opened I was amazed by the wonderful condition the frescoes were in. The door has a small window that is open to the elements with the exception of iron bars, and there is also a small open window on one side.

The Church of St. Rok with frescoes in Istria, Croatia

The Church of St. Rok located in Istria, Croatia

The frescoes inside created by Antonio da Padova are immaculate considering they date from early 16th century and exposed to the elements through this door and window. A local fresco artist, Hari Vidović, which I had the pleasure to take a fresco workshop with, explained to me that St. Roch was the patron saint called upon to protect again the Plague. As such there are many churches dedicated to his honor throughout Istria, and Croatia as a whole.

Interior view of the Church of St. Rok, Draguc, with frescoes in Istria, Croatia.

Interior view of the Church of St. Rok, Draguc, Istria, Croatia.

When we opened the door the light rushed in around us. As with any art I view, I will not take photo with a flash. I am not a photographer, so I apologize for the poor quality of photos. I hope you at least get an idea of what we saw from them.

Ceiling section in the Church of St. Roc, Draguc, with frescoes in Istria, Croatia.

Ceiling section in the Church of St. Roc, Draguc, Istria, Croatia.

Never did I imagine that the sleepy village of Draguc would still be protecting such beautiful frescoes.

We were greeted with still vivid earth tones in an almost entirely covered interior. I am not exaggerating by saying my breath was taken away and I had tears in my eyes. There were locations where time and water damage have removed the surface but overall the condition was remarkable. There were also places at shoulder height where the frescoes have been covered in graffiti over time. I tend to find the graffiti exciting to look at and a raw illustration of time and place.

Graffiti from 1623 on fresco

Yes, looking at beautifully restored frescoes can be exhilarating. But in Croatia, seeing the time worn surface of the original hand, in a church that requires a hunt, is incredibly rewarding.

Close up of one of the frescos

Cappelletti when in Ravenna, NOT Tortellini

May 27, 2015 By Jessica McAvoy Leave a Comment

I Passatelli

When box pasta dreams, it dreams that it is homemade fresh pasta.

When Cappalletti dream, they dream that they were made at I Passatelli 1962: L’Osteria del Mariani located at Via Ponte Marino 19, Ravenna, Emiglia Romagna, Italy.

Cappalletti are regional pasta stuffed with local cheese and herbs. The word cappalletto means ‘little hat,’ and yes, that is what these tasty little guys resemble. Recently we were in Ravena on a rainy Friday night. The sky seemed to clear for a bit so we tossed on our hikers and headed out for a walk. No sooner did we walk by I Passatelli did the sky open up, and we took that as a sign that this was the place to eat, and to forget about how stylish we looked in our hikers!

The staff was incredibly friendly and when the host began speaking in Italian I responded in Italian; then he inquisitively looked us up and down (nothing screams not Italian like a pair of hikers plus Daryl’s red hair is usually a giveaway) and asked rather unsure holding up menus “Italian?” to which I replied “Certamente!” A fluster of rapid Italian apology ensued which included mention of so many tourists he is never quite sure! I acknowledged that he was correct, we were tourists, but that we were studying Italian and preferred the Italian menu.

The proprietor of the guest house we were staying in, Casa Masoli, had shown us online a few local food specialties to try. Of course the first thing we tend to ask a local when we arrive anywhere new is what do you eat. He showed us a picture of cappalletti, and although they look similar to tortellini, we were told they are not the same, they are specific to the region and contain regional cheese and herbs. We ordered a plate in a meat ragu at I Passatelli and had them split it for us. Quite delicious!

Cappateelli, or little hats are delicious cheese and herb filled pasta "hats" in Ravenna, here served in a meat ragu.

Cappatelli, or little hats are delicious cheese and herb filled pasta “hats” in Ravenna, here served in a meat ragu.

I ordered pollo cacciatore (hunter’s chicken). I make an outstanding one myself so am reluctant to order it when we go out but it sounded so fantastic in the Italian description that I could not resist. I was not disappointed! It came out with a sprig of rosemary and some roasted potatoes.

Pollo Cacciatore, or Hunter’s Style Chicken

Daryl went for the roasted rabbit. His was just as fantastic. We also added a side of sauteed spinach and both had a glass of local red wine. We left it up to the sommelier as they had multiple local red wines by the glass.

Roasted Rabbit.

We finished off with a hazelnut semifreddo. The meal was so good we went back the next night and planned on just a few drinks and a crudo platter and ended up eating again!

Hazelnut Semifreddo

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